(Crain’s) — What’s in the name Brooklyn? For at least 70 companies, including several outside New York, the city’s most populous borough represents cutting-edge yet vintage … cool yet serious … big-city yet small-town. In other words, it’s hard to define. Whatever it is about the borough, the number of businesses looking to tap the Brooklyn name is growing. A vintner called Brooklyn Winery opened in Williamsburg in October. Absolut launched a Brooklyn line of vodka nationwide this past summer. Brooklyn Soda Works, a purveyor of “artisanal, handmade” sodas, started in Clinton Hill last February. Wares from cheese to fudge to ice cream to pickles to even perfume have had the Brooklyn label slapped on them in the past few years, joining such established names as Brooklyn Brewery (founded in 1988) and Brooklyn Burger from A. Stein Meat Products (1935).