Roller Sets Are The Old-School Hair Move We’re Loving Again

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The first chill in the air has its own rhythm in the Black hair calendar. It’s silk-press season—a brief, beloved window when sleek, stretched styles can actually survive the weather.

For most of the summer, the math is simple: high humidity + high heat = guaranteed reversion. That’s why braids, knotless twists, faux locs, and other protective styles dominate warm-weather months. They’re vacation-proof, water-friendly, and sweat-resistant. Fall brings a welcome change to the equation. Lower humidity means pressed or stretched styles can last longer between wash days, with less daily maintenance.

This year, though, there’s a twist: roller sets—the old-school salon staple your mama and grandmama knew by heart—are back in rotation. Influencer Jade Godbolt has been one of the voices showing how the style can be as current as it is classic.

“I was at the beginning stages of growing out my pixie cut after big chopping a year prior,” she told MadameNoire. “I knew that ‘awkward grow-out phase’ was going to be a challenge, so I decided to try something new. I already had the rollers in my closet collecting dust, so I just gave them a try.”

Straight or stretched hair in the fall isn’t new—it’s tradition. Some women go for the high-gloss press, achieved with silicone-based serums and meticulous flat-iron passes. Others opt for Dominican blowouts, known for bounce and movement. The press-and-curl, with its old-school hot comb roots, also has its loyalists.

Roller sets, however, stand apart. Done right, they give body without bulk, shine without shellac, and volume that moves. Where a silk press can sometimes hang a bit too flat, a roller set gives the hair a three-dimensional life. Curls or waves fall in layers, catching the light and brushing the shoulders with just the right amount of swing.

Unlike flat-iron touch-ups, roller sets let you step away from constant direct heat.

The Long Goodbye to Relaxers

The roller-set comeback is part of a bigger story in Black hair care: the move away from chemical relaxers. In the late 2000s and early 2010s, a wave of women went natural, swapping chemical straightening for twist-outs, braid-outs, and wash-and-gos.

We now know the health stakes were—and are—high. A 2022 study from the National Institutes of Health (NIH) found women who used chemical straighteners more than four times a year were more than twice as likely to develop uterine cancer compared to non-users. The Journal of the National Cancer Institute study stressed that Black women are disproportionately affected, partly because of earlier and more frequent use.

In 2023, Boston University’s Black Women’s Health Study echoed the finding: postmenopausal Black women who used relaxers more than twice a year or for over five years had a 50% higher risk of uterine cancer. Researchers pointed to endocrine-disrupting chemicals—formaldehyde, phthalates, parabens—many of which don’t have to be listed on product labels.

With risks like that, women who still love a sleek look are seeking options that honor both style and health. Roller sets—paired with minimal flat-iron use—are proving to be that sweet spot.

Jade’s Heat-Smart Approach

For Godbolt, roller sets are a strategy. “I have noticed incredible hair growth and length retention,” she said. “I still visit my hairstylist every couple of months for professional deep treatments and trims—so that is vital as well. I roll my hair every two to three weeks, with wash-and-go’s maybe once a month, if that. I do one pass on about 370 degrees on my flat iron when I take my rollers down to lock in the style, but other than that, I’m not touching my hair with direct or indirect heat again until my next wash day.”

That one-pass finish is key. It seals in the set without baking the hair, allowing her to maintain the health of her strands while still enjoying the polish of a straight style.

The Body, Shine, and Volume of a Good Roller Set

There’s a reason roller sets inspire such loyalty. When hair is properly hydrated and set with even tension, the result is unmatched body. The hair feels full but light, with movement that lasts for days.

The shine comes from the smoothing of the cuticle as hair dries, stretched around the roller, reflecting light naturally without heavy serums or sprays. Volume comes from the lift at the roots, something flat irons rarely deliver without teasing.

A roller set’s finish is as functional as it is aesthetic. The shape holds better against the elements, meaning fewer touch-ups, less manipulation, and less breakage over time. For women navigating the balance between style and protection, that’s a big win!

Jade’s Three Non-Negotiables for At-Home Sets

While nothing beats the ease of a professional set under a hooded dryer, Godbolt has perfected her at-home routine. Her advice:

Hydration Is the Foundation
“A solid shampoo and deep-conditioning routine. The healthier your hair is, the better it will roll! Hydrated hair is key because that’s what allows it to stretch without breaking.”
Cut for the Set
“Regular trims—and I’d take it even a step further and say having layers cut into your hair—give such a beautiful finished look to your roller set, no matter the hair length.”
Water Before Product
“Always more water before more products. The more lightweight yet effective products you can use, the better! I lean toward leave-ins that are in spray form and always make sure my hair is saturated with lots of water.”

Tradition Meets Intention

Godbolt believes the roller-set revival is as much about self-care as it is about style. “We live in a world that is constantly changing, rapidly,” she said. “Trends are in and out faster than ever, and honestly—we ain’t got time for that! We want to stop chasing the next ‘look’ and find our look. Which I believe is connected to us also wanting to take better care of ourselves emotionally, physically, and spiritually.”

For her, that means leaning on techniques that have stood the test of time. “There is nothing new under the sun, and that is true for our hair too. There’s no ‘magic’ product that is going to fix all of our problems like we’ve been sold in the past. Today, we’re wiser and smarter—many of us realizing, ‘You know what—if it worked for my mama and my grandmama, why wouldn’t it work for me?’”

The Bigger Picture

Fall’s straightening season is a time to flex the versatility of Black hair, the wisdom of generational beauty practices, and the growing insistence on health-first choices. The roller-set revival bridges those priorities with a look that’s timeless, flattering, and, thanks to influencers like Jade Godbolt, completely accessible at home.

Sometimes, the most modern thing you can do is return to what’s always worked.

Roller Sets Are The Old-School Hair Move We’re Loving Again