(NYT) — With the sun pounding down on Church Avenue in central Brooklyn, Johanna Washington dipped her fingers into an ice-cold cooler and shook her head as a man in a blue T-shirt approached, water bottles in hand.

He and his dripping shopping cart marked the fourth competitor to set up shop at her intersection on Thursday afternoon, and she was not pleased to find herself part of a chorus chanting the same song: “Cold water, cold water.”

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