As we prepare for Thanksgiving, it’s important to take a moment to reflect on the invaluable contributions of Black chefs, who have long been instrumental in shaping the culinary world. Despite their undeniable influence, their contributions often go underappreciated. From the rich, soulful flavors of Southern cuisine to the vibrant influences of African, Caribbean, and other diasporic food traditions, Black chefs are essential in preserving and evolving the diverse food cultures of both America and the world. Their impact, however, extends far beyond the kitchen—they are cultural ambassadors, innovators, and fierce advocates for equity in the food industry.
Thanksgiving is a time when many Black chefs inject their creativity into traditional meals, ensuring that time-honored recipes from African American and African diasporic cuisine remain at the forefront. From soul food staples like fried chicken, collard greens, and cornbread to dishes influenced by Caribbean and West African roots, Black chefs serve as the guardians of recipes passed down through generations. These dishes carry a deep, meaningful connection to resilience, community, and cultural heritage, serving as reminders of the strength and enduring spirit of Black communities. Through their cooking, Black chefs not only preserve these traditions but also continue to innovate and inspire new generations.
Many of these culinary traditions have their roots in the legacy of slavery. As noted by Afro, in Damon Lee Fowler’s book Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance, the writer detailed how enslaved Black people were often tasked with following written recipes, but they were also skilled culinary artists in their own right. Just as with soul food today, they infused their own creativity and personal touch, transforming simple recipes into something far beyond the written word.
“Their hands had known other products, their noses, other fragrances, and this was bound to affect the cookery for the better,” according to Fowler.
James Hemings revolutionized macaroni and cheese, a Thanksgiving staple.
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Black chef James Hemings was a prime example of black excellence in the cooking world at the time. Hemings’ life took a significant turn in 1774 when his owner, Thomas Jefferson, brought him to Paris to train as a chef in the renowned French culinary tradition, according to Monticello. While in Paris, Hemings studied under the guidance of Monsieur Combeaux, a prominent caterer and restaurateur, and later apprenticed with pastry chefs before working in the household of the Prince de Condé. During this time, he mastered the art of classic French dishes like bouillabaisse, coq au vin, and crème brûlée.
It was during this period that Hemings created his now-famous version of macaroni and cheese—a layered delicacy that has become a beloved staple in Black households, particularly during Thanksgiving celebrations. According to Afro, Jefferson was so impressed with Hemings’ macaroni and cheese that he couldn’t get enough of it. In fact, he had a macaroni extruder shipped to Virginia to bring the dish to America. Jefferson began hosting dinner parties where the macaroni and cheese was a standout, earning “rave reviews” from guests, the outlet noted. In 1779, after Jefferson was elected as wartime governor of Virginia, Hemings and his brother, Robert, became his personal attendants, solidifying their roles in Jefferson’s household.
Today, here’s how three Black chefs continue to honor and carry forward their family legacies through the art of cooking.
