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I was never a fan of science class. Even today if someone starts spewing large scientific words, I mentally check out. However the further I delve into maintaining healthy hair, the more I realize that the science of my hair matters. Not only does the science of my hair matter towards keeping it healthy, it matters because it helps to save me money. Being a product junkie isn’t cheap. Nor is running to the store to try every new product because you can’t find the right product that works in your hair. Having a basic understanding of the science of your hair will help you save time, money and some peace of mind. So let’s minimize the hair frustration, get you back some valuable time in your schedule and help keep a few more dollars in your bank account by looking at the 4 basic science tips everyone needs to know about their hair.

1, Your hair and nails are the last part of your body to receive nutrients from your food intake.

Yes it is reaching the point of redundancy to constantly have to read that what you eat affects your hair. But it is of the utmost importance. Because your hair and nails are the last part of the body to receive nutrients, if you are shortchanging yourself by drinking sugary beverages while eating over processed foods, your body will stave off nutrients from your hair to ensure that the rest of your body gets what it needs. So all you ladies skipping out on the broccoli, spinach and water, while heading straight for the Doritos Locos taco and Grande Spice Pumpkin Latte, we’re talking to you.

2. Internal is greater than external.

You could be doing all the right things on the outside to your hair, but your internal well being trumps all of that. If you are experiencing severe stress, going through hormonal changes due to pregnancy of menopause and/or have blood flow problems due to medical issues or lack of exercise – your hair will be affected. We can apply any and all topical products, wear protective styles for 5 years and cease use of any heated products like flat irons. That still won’t trump the impact that your internal well being as on your hair.

3. Maintaining hair at a neutral pH balance is key for all hair types.

Whether relaxed or natural, the pH balance of your hair is important for all. pH balance affects how the cuticle of hair lays and is very integral in the relaxing process. If you want to minimize frizz or prevent your hair from being a poof ball, knowing how the pH level of your hair works is key.

4. The importance of detangling is a scientific fact. 

You have to detangle your hair, no way around it. It’s best to detangle hair prior to washing it and you will see a guaranteed change when styling your hair. Detangling your hair prevents excessive shedding, knots, more tangles and frizzy hair. You’re hair goes through three stages of growth on a continuous basis: anagen, catagen and telogen. The telogen stage is the shedding phase. You are continuously shedding hair on daily basis, just as you hair grows on a daily basis. If you have extra curly and/or kinky hair, your shed hairs are prone to get caught in the curls/kinks of the rest of your hair. Detangling your hair will loosen those shed hairs from your head and pull them out without catching them into tangles. Ever had a bunch of string or yarn that was in knots? You get it out of knots by taking strands out individually, same as detangling. Shed hair will tangle and you will shed because of the phases of your hair. Having a good detangling process that you start at the onset of your wash routine will help you out all the way down to styling your hair. Now think of it, all you ladies that fuss over your weaves that tangle and shed, guess how you can prevent that too? Yes girl, detangle it and brush it in a downward motion.

Jouelzy offers tutorials on all aspects of Black hair care via her YouTube channel, focusing on women with tight budgets. You can also find her daily hair tips and inspirations on Facebook.

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Source: The Smoking Gun

The next time a TSA agent asks me to stop for one more second to check my hair after I’ve gone through the metal detector, or those new X-ray-like machines, I will think of Kiana Howell and Makeeba Graham. Who are these ladies? They are the tag-team duo who had the bright idea to smuggle cocaine all the way from Guyana to New York City in their, get this, hair weaves.

Yes, the Smoking Gun reports that early Sunday morning the duo was stopped in customs when an agent noticed “an unusual bulge beneath the defendant’s hair weave” during a routine pat down. Kiana was asked to remove the weave and responded with a ridiculous excuse that she couldn’t because she had a package with unknown contents sewn into it. Umm ding, ding, ding wrong answer. At this point, “Howell’s weave was subsequently dismantled at a medical facility, where agents removed a rounded package wrapped with clear plastic. Inside was nearly a kilo of cocaine.” Her road dog Makeeba suffered a similar fate after she told agents she couldn’t remove her “unusually high and bulky hair style” because it was sewn to her natural hair. Her weave was only “partially dismantled” but inside, the TSA found more than a kilo. Damn, damn, damn Makeba.

Anyone who frequently travels knows that the 9/11 terrorist attacks completely sucked the life out of flying. From increased ticket prices due to people’s fear over flying, to baggage fees to make up for those losses, to the increasingly invasive security measures, which now include hair patdowns – mostly for women of color—half the time flying just isn’t worth the hassle. But curse hair weave killing Thelma and Louise 2.0 for making us all look like cocaine smuggling  enemies of the U.S. of A anytime we roll through the airport rocking a natural fro, 18-inch yaki, or even me and my Chinese bun as my friends like to call my daily ‘updo.

I personally still haven’t lived down my 2003 TSA hairtastrophe.  I was flying from Detroit to Atlanta with my dad to stay with him for a week after graduating high school, and in my 18-year-old mind I needed to have the fresh silky-silky wrap game going on when I finally stepped off my flight into the ATL. So naturally, I thought the solution to preserving my sexay was to rock my Velcro hair wrap with a stocking cap and a hat over it – you know totally disregarding the fact that naturally the TSA would assume I had something to hide under my cap. Well, I was alerted to the err of my ways when I went through the metal detector successfully, so I thought, until that one fateful agent was like “mam, remove your cap please.” I’ll never forget the look on my dad’s face as he struggled to hold back laughter at his child standing in the security line looking in a wave cap, looking more like a negro on the street corner. And because I went through the detector the wrong way, that suddenly made my scan obsolete and I was subject to the full-blown, possible terrorist, hands between the crotch, in the middle of the security area in a wave cap pat down. If it’s not clear in my tone, I’ve gone ahead and sweated my edges out in the airport ever since. Having my hair game on point just isn’t worth the embarrassment.

Thankfully, I haven’t had too many hair pat downs since then, except for the occasional bun check. But as we know from the news reports all throughout the year, plenty of black women from Gabrielle Union to Keke next door have had the unfortunate pleasure of having those sticky blue gloves stroke their locks (while simultaneously hoping the next agent doesn’t throw out that 4.0z lotion they have tucked away in their purse). So on that note, I’d just like to say thank you to kilo-toting Kiana and Makeeba for likely making black women’s experience in the airport that much more difficult going forward. Just say no to smuggling cocaine in those sew-ins ladies. The Department of Homeland Security, not to mention local law enforcement, will dismantle your ‘do, and more importantly your livelihood.

Have you ever had a crazy hair patdown situation at the airport?

*Featured image courtesy of Shutterstock.

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Image: PRNewsFoto/LUXHAIR

Almost every day, when TV personality Sherri Shepherd steps up to the table to join the other women of The View, it is inevitable  someone will say something about Sherri’s hair. Whether good or bad, Shepherd is constantly making a hair statement with the wigs she wears.

Now, the actress  has announced her own line of wigs through a partnership with Aderans Hair– LUXHAIR NOW by Sherri Shepherd – that includes a full wardrobe of hairstyles.

“Wigs have always been a part of my life and have become a staple accessory in my closet. I can remember being a little girl and hearing all the commotion in my house from my mom, aunts and grandmother when picking out their wigs for the day. It was such a good time for them and part of their everyday beauty routine,” said Shepherd in a press statement.

The line includes 12 wig and extension styles, ranging from short to long to curly, and 18 color options, including jet black, deep red and silver grey. According to the company, each piece is hand-woven and treated with a unique texturized styleable Keralon that is supposed to make “each synthetic fiber and strand as style friendly and durable as natural hair.” Some pieces will have soft lace fronts. Shepherd’s wigs cost between $69 and $99 and will be available starting this month at Wigs.com, independent wig and beauty supply channels, Web retailers, catalog and shopping TV.

The Florida Courier reports that wigs and weaves are the moneymakers in the beauty industry: “According to the Black Owned Beauty Supply Association, the Black hair care and cosmetic industry is a $9 billion industry and it serves millions of African-Americans.” Yet, says the article, African Americans don’t have much ownership in the industry. Well, add Shepherd to the list of African-American celebrities with their own wig lines. Some of the others include: Vivica A. Fox, Elise Neal, and Iman.

Montgomery Frazier, ”The Image Guru,” feels the Shepherd collection has a good chance at success because there is a great demand, especially in the ethnic community. “I think that most ladies of color, who do not opt for extensions or weaves, or lengthy hair straightening processes, see wigs as a quick, versatile alternative for a multitude of styles that give them all the personalities they desire and compliment all their outfits appropriately,” he says.

And because Shepherd is a celebrity she has an edge in promoting her line—by wearing it on television daily. Concludes Frazier, “Look at women like Cher  and Lady Gaga —icons.  They’ve been known as much for their hairstyles as… their fashions.”

You know how some celebrities refuse to badmouth others, even when people try to coax them into it? Tamar Braxton is not one of them. During an appearance on “Anderson Live” to promote her new spinoff, “Tamar and Vince,” Anderson Cooper totally baited the outspoken Braxton baby sister into a discussion on hair weave, starting with the most offensive wearer of all, Nicki Minaj. Anderson asked what she thought of Nicki’s technicolor weaves, and though Tamar tried to preface her response with admiration for the rapper, she still went in.

“Well listen, I love Nicki, everybody loves Nicki. I love Nicki and I feel like I can speak about it because I’ve had a couple of bad wig moments myself. That is an atrocity. Okay, ain’t nobody got time for that. Neon hair?”

LOL at a couple of bad wig moments, although I must say, Tamar’s soft blonde waves are pretty on point in this segment. As for Nicki’s hair, I have to agree with Tamar’s next statement:

“Put that back in the box and put her upstairs boo.”

Bless her extra heart.

After going in on Nicki, the convo turned to the combination of faux hair atop Tamar’s head and she went in on somebody else for tweeting and asking what type of weave she wears. Apparently that’s a no-no in weave culture? Once they got past the hair weave killing, Anderson also managed to show a clip from Tamar and Vince’s new spinoff which airs in two days on WETV.

Check out the segments here. How are you feeling about Tamar’s appearance on “Anderson Live?”

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While the natural hair movement has definitely taken off. There are still a lot of black women who prefer to maintain their hair with a relaxer. And many of them feel left out in the healthy hair tips discussion. But is it valid to completely dismiss one with relaxed hair as being incapable of maintaining healthy strands?

It is true that a relaxer is a chemical alteration to your natural hair structure. A relaxer essentially breaks down the disulfide bonds (which make hair curly) in the hair follicle and caps them so that they do not reform, thus causing the hair to be permanently straight. Now while some may refer to relaxers as “controlled damage,” that does not mean that relaxed hair isn’t capable of being maintained as long, healthy hair. If relaxed hair is beyond being healthy, then anyone who colors their hair, another process that breaks the bonds in hair follicles, could also call their strands just as unhealthy.

What really does the most damage to relaxed hair is over-processing while applying the relaxer and the way one treats their hair post-relaxer. The hair typing chart is just as useful to women who wear relaxers as it is to women with natural hair. Therefore, if you understand the texture of your natural hair you’ll have a better understanding of how often to relax your hair and various methods that you can use to stretch your hair in between touch ups. Getting relaxers too often and not giving your scalp and hair a chance to breathe will lead to your hair falling out because it is over-processed. Generally speaking, reapplying less than 3-4 weeks after your last touch-up will lead to over-processing. Also, there is absolutely no need for maximum/super strength relaxers, and you most certainly want to avoid lye relaxers. While it is best to have your hair relaxed by a qualified professional, for some, the at-home applications are the only financial option. Try sticking to ‘kiddie’ perms and be patient when applying it to your hair. Make sure to work it properly and evenly throughout your hair for best results. Don’t just throw an extra strength relaxer into your hair haphazardly, as it will over-process your locks and leave you with burnt clumps of hair. Do not forget about the neutralizing shampoo as well. A relaxer is highly alkaline on the pH balance scale, and neutralizing shampoo is so important because it neutralizes the disulfide bonds mentioned early, stopping them from processing your hair and leaving you with the straight result. Because neutralizing shampoos are acidic (to bring down the alkaline pH balance of relaxers) do NOT use them post washing out your relaxer, as they will overly dry your hair out.

Just as with any other hair texture, the bulk of the damage can be done by how we maintain our hair. Just because one has a relaxer does not mean that they can apply heat to their hair every day, forgo washing it and slather any old product into their hair. It’s even more important for those with relaxers to mind the products that they put in their hair because they don’t want it to further break down the bonds in the hair follicle. Using products that are highly acidic are counterproductive to maintaining a straight relaxer. It’s best to try and maintain hair at a close to neutral pH balance (7 pH) as possible, starting with a good deep-conditioning process that you do regularly. Minimize the amount of brushing and direct heat that is applied to the hair. You already put a relaxer in, there is no need to flat iron it every day.

Lastly, know that any high-alkaline product will cause your hair to straighten. Michelle Obama’s very laid hair has been all the rage at the Democratic National Convention, as it gleams and flows in the spotlight. Word on the curb is that she uses a non-chemical relaxer called PhytoSpecific that contains the organic salt, guanidine carbonate, the same ingredient used in relaxers and Nair (hence why if you over-process your hair, it falls out). For women who are loosening their curls with ‘Silkners’ and texturizers it all comes down to the same process.

You can achieve healthy hair even with a relaxer. It all comes down to having an understanding of your hair, a good dose of patience, and a healthy hair regimen. There’s no quick fix to healthy hair.

Jouelzy offers tutorials on all aspects of Black hair care via her YouTube channel, focusing on women with tight budgets. You can also find her daily hair tips and inspirations on Facebook.

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Ladies, shouldn’t your man love you for who you are – and not what your mane looks like? Yeah…if only things were that simple lol. Per our usual, Madame On The Street hit up New Yorkers to find out just how much a partner’s opinions matters when it comes to hair and hair styles.

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Source: lipstickmanual.com

“You know better than to be walking around with your head lookin’ like that.”

“Why do you want your hair to look all wild and wooly like that?”

 “You can’t go up there with them White folks lookin’ like that.”

“You need to comb that mess.”

“Why don’t you straighten it and part in on the side and tuck it under?”

Nice little drive-by of insults, huh? Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside, right?

This is what I came home to on summer breaks from college. Back then, I was a cowardly little thing, so, to avoid the ridicule I would either pull my afro back into a tight neat bun or just give the fight all the way up and straighten my hair until I got back to my safe haven of self-expression: college.

The comments didn’t bother me as much as the fact that this outright dislike for my natural hair was coming from the mother who expressly forbade my sister and me to get relaxers in our adolescence. Now, in my adult years, they were scolding my exploration of my God-given, naturally-grown kinks. Er? My mother had a huge afro in her twenties! Either way, my full head of curly hair wasn’t something she wanted to see out and about.

Let me back up to the 6^th grade. I hated my hair. My mother kept my hair blown out in three or four braids and she stood by her decision to keep my hair chemical-free, citing complete baldness as a sure thing if I got a relaxer at that age. To an 11-year-old who is getting bullied every day by the other little black girls – all of whom HAVE relaxers – those lectures went in one ear and right out the other. I cried. A lot. I changed my hair at the bus stop. I developed a detrimentally frequent relationship with handfuls of thick, slick grease and any form of intense direct heat I could get my hands on: an old school, set-it-on-the-stove-till-it-smokes hot comb; a rusted, gold curling iron that left more burn marks on my ears and neck than it straightened my hair; a blow dryer with the standard fine-toothed comb attachment that when raked through my thick kinks, murdered my scalp, but left my hair LAID. At least until I’d sweat or take a bath. Then those little curly Qs would pop up all over in a frizzy mess. At one point with angry and frustrated tears in both eyes, I grabbed a severely rusted pair of industrial-sized seamstress’s scissors, sat behind the couch and cut off my wildly frizzy bangs, right down to the scalp. My mom freaked, but still no relaxer.

Granted, I know the ‘no-relaxers’ policy saved my hair and maybe it was easier for my mother to fire up a hot comb or plug in a blow dryer, but what was I learning in that process? Though she didn’t believe in putting a relaxer in my head, she felt that straight hair was and is the “right” way to wear my hair. I took this standard and internalized it. Yes, I was told by my mother that I had ‘good hair,’ but if my hair was ‘good’ then why wasn’t a pony puff or full ‘fro ever acceptable? Without realizing it, for years I believed that my freshly washed frizzy curls were “nappy,” ugly and in need of manipulation. Not because my mom TOLD me they were but because she SHOWED me they were by praising the “straighter” versions of my hair and shunning the curlier. Straighten it, part it on the side and curl it under. THAT’S the ticket.

In the end, I was more comfortable in my natural hair at college than at home. I didn’t want to fight my hair anymore. I wanted to embrace it. I wanted to make it work–and I did. My ‘fro became my trademark so much so that my friends and the PROVOST OF THE UNIVERSITY called me “Puff Puff.” It was hilarious back then, but it speaks volumes now. Something I had feared and deemed ugly – others loved and embraced. The old slavery time stigma of ‘good’ hair versus ‘bad’ hair had reached into my family and I never even recognized its grasp until now. Just a few weeks ago my sister, mother and cousin made me relax their hair. I might have been less reluctant to do it if I was certain that they had no complex about their own hair and that they just didn’t have the time to dedicate to natural hair care, but each of them sees their natural hair as ugly in some sense. That saddens me, but I’ve accepted that not everything is for everybody. Straight hair is no longer my standard of beauty. Well-maintained hair is, no matter what that looks like. I see the beauty now in what my hair naturally is. However, I’m careful not force my new views of black hair on my family. All I can do is what fits me.

The straight, “side part under” may have been the safe thing to do back in the day, but today is a new day and I am bold. I’m redefining ‘beautiful,’ ‘acceptable,’ and ‘correct,’ for myself. Does my mother like it? Not always. Every now and then she’ll tell me to “Do something with that mess,” and I shrug it off. I’ll keep my twist outs. I got a taste of freedom and I’m not going back. No shade to the faithful creamy crack users – do you. But for me? I had to lose the hold my family’s warped perception of black hair had on me and interpret my hair and my image for myself. The feeling is unparalleled and so is the growth – both internally and atop my head.

La Truly is a Natural-haired, late-blooming Aries with lots to say. Her writing is powered by a lifetime of anecdotal proof that awkward can transform to awesome and fear can cast its crown before courage. Armed with the ability to purposefully poke fun at herself La seeks to encourage thought, discussion and positive change. Check out her thoughts/jokes/rants on Twitter: @AshleyLaTruly and her young women’s empowerment blog: www.hersoulinc.com.

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OctoberGallery.com

While pricier personal care products tend to work almost like magic, blowing your entire paycheck on items you can’t really afford isn’t the only way you can tap into quality skin, hair and nail care. There are tons of brands carried in drugstores that retail at reasonable price points and will work well as supplements to your splurge-worthy items. Here are some of the best beauty products currently lining drugstore shelves.

Read the rest of this entry »

Source: espn.go.com

I was hoping no one would even bother asking 16-year-old Olympian Gabby Douglas about the ridiculous criticism of her hair last week but her response to the drama is even better than her ignoring it at all.

The Associated Press caught up with the history-making gymnast—and new Kellog’s spokesperson—to see how she felt about all the negativity, and her words prove she’s as levelheaded off the balance beam as she is when performing.

“I don’t know where this is coming from. What’s wrong with my hair? she said. “I’m like, `I just made history and people are focused on my hair?’ It can be bald or short, it doesn’t matter about (my) hair.”

Oh, and one more thing:

“Nothing is going to change,” she added. “I’m going to wear my hair like this during beam and bar finals. You might as well just stop talking about it.”

#POW

Being the gracious representative of American athleticism that she is, Gabby also added this:

“I don’t think people should be worried about that. We’re all champions and we’re all winners. I just say that it’s kind of, a stupid and crazy thought to think about my hair.”

It’s amazing she understands that at 16, yet the tweeters older than her who sparked the drama have no clue. Surprisingly, AP didn’t ask Gabby about the other controversy that’s been surrounding her coverage in the media as of late, the ”Animal Practice” ad that ran after her performance Thursday night. Though the ad for NBC’s new comedy was already previously scheduled to run late Thursday night following the women’s gold medal competition regardless of who won, a lot of people took issue with a monkey being shown as an Olympian on the rings given the historical reference of African Americans as monkeys. NBC issued an apology for any perceived slight, saying:

“Gabby Douglas’ gold medal performance last night was a historic and inspiring achievement. The spot promoting ‘Animal Practice,’ which has run three times previously, is one in a series with an Olympic theme, which have been scheduled for maximum exposure. Certainly no offense was intended.”

Unfortunately the same can’t be said for those taking jabs at Gabby’s hair, but hopefully she’s shut them up for good. What do you think about her response?

Brande Victorian is the news and operations editor for madamenoire.com. Follow her on twitter @Be_Vic.

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