All Articles Tagged "natural hair care"
Blowouts And Breakage: I Love You Dominican Hair Salons, But You’re Killing My Hair Softly…

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The road to natural hair is paved with good intentions. The joy of not being a slave to routine chemical processing and heat styling certainly is alluring for many. Many natural hair divas will tell you they find there’s more freedom and versatility in styling hair in its natural state. There are many more positive reasons for going natural; it all depends on who you ask.
I went natural for all those reasons three years ago, ready to embrace my natural coils and free up my schedule and budget in the process. Unlike many other naturalistas, I didn’t do the “big chop” (or BC as it is called in the natural hair community). I just let the relaxer grow out, relying on weaves and blowouts during the transition phase. When the relaxed hair finally grew out, I tried out a few low-maintenance natural hair styles, but was disappointed that I didn’t have the length or the talent to recreate all the fabulously luscious styles I saw the natural hair divas on YouTube rocking.
One attempt at a two-strand twist turned into a messy four-hour ordeal that left me with disastrous results. I followed the directions on the curling product jar to a T, or so I thought. The end result was a frizzy, tangled mess that looked like the ‘before’ picture in a hair product ad. Talk about an epic fail. I felt as if I had let my natural hair sisters down. I was losing hope.
Impatient and indecisive about the direction I wanted to take with my hair, I weaved it up for a couple of months while I decided what my next style move would be. After the weave I thought I would get a blowout for a couple of weeks, mainly to check my hair growth. There was only one place I would go for my blowout; the place where dreams were born and legends were made. Several of my natural hair girlfriends went to the same Dominican salon and their hair looked healthy, flawless and fabulous. I didn’t need much convincing or an appointment for that matter. So to the Dominican salon I went.
I had heard horror stories about the excruciating heat you’re subjected to at the Dominican salon. Someone told me about her one and only experience at a Dominican salon, complete with amusing re-enactments of weeping and gnashing of teeth. She made it sound like it was hell fire and damnation. But I had so many other friends who went to these salons and had great experiences and hair to prove it. I decided I would go through the experience just one time to check my growth and wear my hair in a different style for a couple of weeks.
The stylists at the Dominican salon were wonderful. They welcomed me into the Sisterhood of the Fabulously Flowing Blowouts with open arms. Literally. When I walked into the salon, I was greeted with a hug and immediately ushered back to the spa-like shampoo room. I walked past rows of women under dryers with what looked like ear muffs on their ears. Ladies in the stylist chairs getting their hair blown out didn’t seem to be in tears or crying out in pain. All I knew was that I wanted to get the same flowing end-results they were getting.
When it was my turn to meet the hair dryer, it was hotter than I would have preferred, but it didn’t kill me. All I knew was that 45 minutes after I walked into the Dominican salon with my tightly coiled afro, I was leaving with a sleek, bouncy chin-length bob. I was now a member of the Sisterhood of the Fabulously Flowing Blowouts.
Fast-forward three months later. My visits every two to three weeks were starting to take a toll on my hair. I started noticing hair breaking off around my temples and along my hairline. The strain of the heat was beginning to show. No amount of sisterhood hugs could erase the fact that I was losing the natural hair I had spent more than two years to grow. As much as I hated to admit it, I had to leave the sisterhood.
When it comes to Dominican salons, I can say I’ve been there and done that. I’m not knocking the experience though. I have countless family members and friends who have been going to Dominican salons for years, and their hair is so sleek and healthy you’d think they had perms. I just know that it’s not for me. It’s been almost three months since my last visit to the Dominican salon, and I’m starting to see a little evidence of growth around my edges. Maybe after all I put it through, my hair has forgiven me.
Why Black Women Should Go Natural At Least Once In Their Adult Lives

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I’m all for women wearing their hair in the way that makes them feel their most beautiful and confident (well, at least in theory, tacky lace fronts and shellacked hair excluded). And as the internecine battle conversation about natural v. chemically processed hair continues, I think India Arie’s song “I Am Not My Hair,” is more relevant than ever.
However, in my own hair journey, and as I read about other women’s hair stories, I am convinced that every Black woman should go natural at least once in her adult life. Here’s why:
Caring for Natural Hair Makes You Focus on Yourself More.
In our hectic lives, between juggling professional, familial and other obligations, often the first thing that falls off of our to-do list is making time for ourselves. Taking care of natural hair often requires setting aside time to properly maintain our tresses, and an added benefit is that it really is time that we spend looking inward and being nurturing and loving to ourselves.
Learning About Natural Haircare Teaches Us So Much About Other Aspects of Our Health.
I’m sure that many women would agree that in learning about caring for natural hair, they’ve gained knowledge about healthy living – eating clean organic foods, avoiding certain chemical ingredients, getting proper rest and exercise, drinking LOTS more water. I never realized just how important eating sulfur rich foods help, not just my hair, but my overall physical well-being. The same goes for minerals such as silica.
Caring for Natural Hair Expands Our Notions of What is Beautiful.
Whether you spent a year or more transitioning, or did the “big chop,” moving into uncharted waters with your hair can be uncomfortable and even scary. The good news is that growth and evolution occurs outside of our comfort zone. Growing hair out from a “TWA” can present challenges, especially if we tended to “hide” behind our hair in the past, it can feel naked and vulnerable. Coaxing out our true texture, experimenting with different makeup choices and accessorizing with earrings and other embellishments that we normally wouldn’t wear as we embrace our new and changing looks and style possibilities can be life-affirming.
Most Women Need to Learn What Their Natural Hair is Even Capable Of Achieving.
Since we were young girls, too many of us have been indoctrinated to believe that our hair is something to be conquered. Even the slightest little kink of new growth would have many of us running out to slap some relaxer in our hair. Well that mentality had us killing our hair, leaving it ravaged and over-processed. Going natural forces us to confront our own texture, and remarkably, many women find that their hair is not nearly as unmanageable as they believed it was, and the majority find that their hair can grow longer than they even realized it could. The psychic benefits of this is tremendous because it’s almost impossible to grown healthy hair if you have such negative self-talk about your hair in the first place.
What’s Better for Your Hair? Flat Iron vs. Hot Comb
My journey to the promised land of natural hair has been a path paved with many trials and errors, shampoos, conditioners, creams and oils. As I am learning to embrace and celebrate my natural hair in all its coil-y glory, I still like to wear my hair in a sleek, straight bob every now and then.
Enter my two BFFs: Hot Comb and Flat Iron.
I wasn’t always on good terms with the hot comb, having suffered scalp burns and trauma caused by many a styling ordeal during my childhood. Over the years, as hair styling techniques advanced and electric hot combs with heat settings became available, I let the hot comb back into my life, albeit slowly. Not knowing the tricks of the trade, I’ve singed myself and my hair more times than I care to remember.
Since I began my hair transition three years ago, I found myself relying more and more on my flat iron. Not knowing what to look for or the best way to use it to get my roots super-straight made styling my hair difficult. Still, I gave it a good ol’ college try and ended up watching my hair break, strand by strand. I assumed the breakage was caused by the heat on my hair.
What I didn’t know was that the kind of flat iron I was using was making matters worse. Over the years, I’ve amassed quite the collection of ceramic, “high-low” two-setting flat irons. I have black ones, blue ones, broken ones…you name it, I probably have it. According to Johnny Wright, SoftSheen-Carson artistic style director and celebrity stylist, the best flat irons are titanium-plated with variable heat settings. Wright recommends the Corioliss Baby SXE. It’s a smaller flat iron, because “it’s small enough to allow you to get as close to the hairline as possible without burning the scalp.”
Ceramic irons were once thought to be good. But if you look at the surface of a ceramic iron under a microscope, the surface was ridged like an orange peel. And that surface would cause friction on the air. The titanium-plated flat irons have a much smoother surface, and can straighten the hair in one pass, rather than the two or three passes it would take with a ceramic flat iron.
Don’t throw away that hot comb just yet. It still has its purpose. The hot comb is good for straightening hair around the perimeter of the head “to give the hair a straighter finish,” says Wright.
All this time I had it wrong. I would use the hot comb to straighten my roots, and then comb it through the hair for good measure (and torture). Then I would go over my hair with the flat iron over and over again until my hair was relatively straightened, or I got tired, whichever came first.
Wright recommends when you wash and blow-dry your hair, go ahead and set the iron on the highest setting your hair can handle. For those, like me, who flat iron their hair every day, turn down that flat iron!
Follow Kimberly Shorter on Twitter at @KimberlyWriter.
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The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu: Growing Hair With Vitamins
Dear Anu,
I am looking for a way to grow my hair quickly. Some time ago I went into a salon for a relaxer and a trim something which I do every 4-5 months and unfortunately this women did not do a good job with the trim. She cut more than she trimmed. Needless to say I was not happy with the service given. In my search to grow hair I have come across Hairfinity vitamins. They promise to grow your hair fast and there are a ton of testimonials on youtube. I have taken the Nioxin vitamins in the past and couldn’t really tell if my hair was growing from the vitamins or from me taking better care of my hair. Have you heard of Hairfinity, would you recommend it?
Regards,
Marilyne A
The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu: Jamaican Black Castor Oil
This week on The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu, Ms. Prestonia helps a reader learn how to help the thinning areas around her temples grow after years of stress on that area. Here’s what our resident natural hair care expert has to say.
Hi Anu,
I’m enjoying your column. Would you recommend JBCO (lavender in particular) for use with locs? Are any conditioners a good idea where locs are concerned?
Many thanks,
Kenya
The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu: Re-Growing Temple Hair
This week on The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu, Ms. Prestonia helps a reader learn how to help the thinning areas around her temples grow after years of stress on that area. Here’s what our resident natural hair care expert has to say.
Hello Ms Anu Prestonia,
I am a 33-year old female who just decided to go natural over the past 9 months. I remember as early as 9 years old, getting a jerri curl and then a few years later I started to relax my hair. I haven’t stopped chemically processing since I was a child. Needless to say, my hair and scalp have definitely paid a huge price. Since I did the big chop in July, I am learning a whole new side of my hair; but I am also learning just how damaged it is and that is difficult and frustrating.
My relaxed hair would grow no longer than my collar bones and I spent 8 years in the army. Those years of being in Iraq and the putting on and taking off of the head gear (including wool berets) slowly started to thin my temples out. At my worst, I had to cut my hair so that I could slick the hair down and hopefully cover the balding. It has been three years since I have been out the army and my hair is still bald at the temples.
Right now, I am very patient with the grow out process of my transitioning hair, but I am very impatient with the thinning and bald spots. I wash, condition, and keep my hair as moisturized as possible. I just started using Mega Tek and JBCO products in hopes of speeding up the growth process of the temples. I always loosely wrap my hair at night and do all the things I believe I should be doing. I would like to move beyond the baldness so I can focus on the rest of my transitioning hair, since that is the most embarrassing for me. Do you have any tips for women who are having a difficult time growing the thinned/bald temple areas? Am I going the wrong route by using those products I mentioned? Thank you!
Sincerely,
Clueless but slowly learning
The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu: Weekly Q&A
This week on The Truth @bout Natural Hair With Anu, Ms. Prestonia helps a reader learn how to better care for her infant’s natural hair. Here’s what our resident natural hair care expert has to say.
Hello, Anu,
I need some advice. I have an eleventh month old baby girl and need some advice on caring for her hair. I have been told everything from “brush her hair before she goes to bed so it will grow” to “use hair care products specifically targeted for babies.”
This is my regimen. Currently, I use olive oil in her hair everyday and when I part her hair in barrettes, I use coconut oil. I have read in the past not to use mineral oil. I have noticed her hair is a little dry. When I wash her hair, I use the baby shampoo, specifically for curly hair. I wash her hair every two to three weeks because she does not like her hair washed and cries.
To make matters worse, I have a five-year-old daughter, so you would think that I would know what to do. No! I have had her going to the beauty salon for about a year now, and her hair has doubled in length. Why is that?
PLEASE HELP A CLUELESS MOTHER! Oh! and by the way we have 100% negro, African-American hair that is very curly or some would say “kinky.”
Thank you
Cathy, age 39
Meet Anu Prestonia, Madame Noire’s Natural Hair Care Expert
Madame Noire is very happy to announce that natural hair care expert Anu Prestonia will be penning a weekly natural hair care Q&A for our readers. Anu began her journey as a natural hair care stylist at a time when wearing natural black hair was revolutionary. When Anu started her business in the ’70s as a student at Howard University, her clients ranged from intellectuals to forward thinking stewardesses. Since then she has beautified celebrity clients ranging from Angela Bassett to Angela Davis. As the owner of the natural hair care salon Khamit Kinks, Anu currently brings her brand of holistic black hair care to eager men and women seeking to explore and enjoy their natural textures. Write to Anu at editors@madamenoire.com with all your questions on black hair care, natural hair care salons, natural hair styles, and natural hair care tips. She can’t wait to get started helping you develop an overall approach to a healthy relationship with your hair.
In the meantime, Anu sat down with us to introduce herself, and give you some additional insights into her background and methodology. Here is what she had to say.
When did you first get involved in natural hair care? What was the market like when you started?
I first became involved in natural hair care while attending Howard University in the late 70’s. When I began my career in natural hair care there was a very small, niche market that consisted primarily of students, artists, and those involved in or studying African culture — in other words those with the freedom to express their creativity and independence of thought.
How have things changed since then? How far do you think the natural hair care trend will go?
Things have changed dramatically since those days starting with the fact that natural hair for the most part has been accepted in mainstream America. It can be seen in the board rooms, in corporate America, on all forms of media advertising and there is currently an explosion of natural hair care product companies. Plus, bigger and bigger manufacturers are marketing to natural hair care consumers.
I don’t consider natural hair care a trend. Instead I feel it has been an evolutionary process that continues to grow and expand. It’s a lifestyle change and an awareness of the beauty of our own esthetic that has come to the forefront of our consciousness. And I believe it will continue to grow. Every day I consult with young women who are discovering for the first time the real texture of their hair after a childhood of having their hair chemically processed. These new comers to natural hair will continue to grow this industry.
Top Natural Hair Salon Owners Discuss Industry's Explosive Growth
By Yassira Diggs
One doesn’t have to look far for evidence that wearing natural hair is still unacceptable to many in the mainstream. Only four short years ago, a Glamour magazine editor presented a slide show on proper corporate fashion during which she declared the afro “a real no-no” and dreadlocks “truly dreadful.” Despite such negative feedback, more and more African-Americans are falling in love with their natural hair and seeking salons that cater to this interest. Leaders of natural hair care salons nationwide have shared some of their insights into this growing market with us — and their favorite products — highlighting the exciting expansion of this beauty revolution. As more black women (and men) explore their natural hair options in droves, this new aesthetic will become more common in the workplace. Corporate America might have to adjust to our new standard of beauty, as the growth described by these natural hair care salon owners is certain to continue.
Khamit Kinks
400 Atlantic Ave, Brooklyn, NY
Tel: 800.261.3980
Despite the market crash in 2008 “the natural hair industry has grown as many women are awakening to the beauty, power and liberation of natural hair,” Anu Prestonia owner of Khamit Kinks in Brooklyn, NY told The Atlanta Post. She has run a renowned natural hair care mecca for three decades, boasting celebrity clients like Solange, who had her hair styled there recently for a Carol’s Daughter shoot. While Prestonia is a natural hair care veteran, “In the last five years I would say that the business has increased 10%.” And the natural hair care industry is still growing, even as traditional black hair care faces a decline. “I think the large, corporate, black hair care industry has dwindled considerably,” Anu explains, “while the cottage hair care product industry is growing exponentially. Almost everyone is bringing to market their own products even if they are only selling them to their clients in the beginning.” Prestonia sees this growth in response to a new kind of client, which is younger and eager to experience their own hair texture without braids or other extensions. These are looks that younger clients are taking into the workplace.
Anu’s Product Recommendations:
Anu Essentials, Jane Carter, Hair Rules, CURLS
Should Children Get Relaxers?
I can remember a time not too long ago, when natural hair was definitely not the way to go. It was something that you needed to “press” or “perm” for it to “look right.” And you could count on one hand the number of natural haired women on TV. Fortunately, things have changed. We have many black women in the mainstream wearing and supporting natural hair. And most recently I was put on to the Dead Prez’s “The Beauty Within”- a beautiful song celebrating natural hair.
Hair is a hot topic among black women. And many times it comes in the form of the relaxed vs. natural debate. Let me go on the record with stating that I’m a natural hair woman. I am anti-relaxers. But I do not press my beliefs on black women who choose to relax their own hair. Black women are adults and can make their own hair decision. So with that aside, I’d like to turn this topic over to black children- specifically little black girls.













