What Spending A Half A Trillion Dollars on Hair Care and Weaves Says About Us

May 11th, 2011 - By TheEditor

By H. Fields Grenee

Straight, wavy, curly, fine, curse – few things generate more passion or anger among African American women than their hair. Some critics note that the emphasis placed on hair is a double-edged sword aimed at ones’ self esteem. Or when quaffed well, i.e. “Good Hair” becomes a passage to acceptance within the dominate cultures’ ideal of beauty.

Then there are those who view hair – commercial or natural – as an accompaniment to an outfit; like a hat or that essential accessory that glams up the whole look. Despite what stance you view the landscape from – hair – African American hair and the cultivation of that “look” via the placement of weave is a multi-billion dollar industry.

Extensions can cost as low as $300 (depending on your geographical area) and go up to $10,000; based on the service – strand by strand extensions or weft (track) that are calculated per weft or a set price for the entire head, says Atlanta-based beautician Toni Love, who has more than 20 years experience styling hair with the addition of weave placement.

Factor in maintenance; better known as touch-ups, required every four to six weeks determined by how fast the recipients’’ natural hair grows – commercial hair placement can range between $4,000 to $80,000 a year – not including transportation, child care or lost productivity incurred by the three to eight hours required to complete the process.

Despite the cost reductions since weaves first gained popularity in the late 70s and early 80’s – when it was primarily used for theatrical purposes, movies, videos and on fashion runways – the expense is difficult to juggle with real incomes. Nevertheless, their hyper-visibility can be seen everywhere from corporate boardrooms to inner-city food desert bodegónes.

Quest for fashion fabulous hair speaks volumes about us

Consider this: $46,326 was the median household income in the United States according to 2010 U.S. Census data and the average income for African American families was $32,584, well below a middle-class lifestyle. Yet we over-spend for the purpose of appearance. Why is this?

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  • Andrea

    …27 comments about hair. Mine makes this 28. M comment is about my utter shock to see this many comments about our hair debates but I doubt if I asked some or even al about some complex theories about forecasting and behavior economic schemas, there would be no responses.

  • Raven

    Ugh I hate this article because Black women are not the only women who wear weaves. My father is Dominican and Dominicans have the same texture hair as African-Americans, I stopped relaxing my hair and starting getting blow outs. Occasionally when I’m tired of styling my hair I will get a sew in…not because my self esteem is low HELL NAW I know I’m a bad chick, but because its a nice change! So what big f***** deal!

  • millie

    Who cares? This is nothing new. It's unfortunate that we as a people routine generate money for industries that doe not acknowledge in their advertising.

    I've been perm free for years, and it's the best decision that I've ever made. I don't think that I'm ever going to get a perm.
    But I'm getting really sick and tired of "naturals" knocking down women who choose to perm/weave their hair. What business is it of yours?

    I've read too many blogs/forums where naturals lamented on their hair growth and I've always suspected that one of the reasons that locs/dreadlocks have become so popular is because it's one of the quickest ways in which women can finally add some length. So get over yourselves. Everyone regardless of race/ethnicity desires long hair down their backs.

  • Brenda

    WE ARE NOT THE ONLY RACE OF PEOPLE THAT WHERE WEAVE, AND CONTINUE TO BUY HAIR PRODUCTS (SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER ETC.) PLEASE GET YOUR EDUCATION AND YOUR CHILDREN EDUCATION, IT IS MUCH MORE TO LIFE THAN WEAVE (GOOD HEALTH).

  • Aja

    I spend about $50/month on hair cleansing and moisturizing products. However it takes me at least 5 hours/week to properly cleanse, condition, moisturize, untangle, and style (minimizing damage every step of the way) my hair.

    If time is money, I wonder how much I actually spend on my hair considering that the same amount of time could be spent working a part time job…lol.

    Anyway the point, I think, is the sticker shock of $500,000,000.00. See, when you write the whole thing out it really makes you wonder what else could be done with $500,000,000.00:).

    • Correction

      hahahahahah its 500,000,000,000.00!!!!!!! Good thing you're not my banker!

  • blazetoday

    people don't know what they can afford that's the problem. they think well i've got the money in my pocket, i can afford it. but people with no savings, no health insurance, no life insurance, no college funds for their kids, no property or land ownership and having high interest rate car loans and spend 40% or 50% of income on housing do not need to be buying weaves from people who won't even let them into the wholesale end of the business.

  • blazetoday

    I think people are missing the point of the story. The excuse "white people do it" is invalid. Black people are in dire straights. No savings, no investments, no insurance, one missed check away from being thrown out on the street. People in that precarious positions should not even be spending 100s must less thousands on hair from another country (where the people there are tricked into thinking they are donating to their religion). If you have 8 to 12 months of emergency household expenses saved up. If you have maxed out your 401k or retirement plan contributions. You don't spend more than 30% of your income on housing. Every adult in the household has life insurance. Every adult and child in the house has Health insurance. You have little to no credit card debt then I say weave it up.

  • blazetoday

    I think people are missing the point of the story. The excuse "white people do it" is invalid. Black people are in dire straights. No savings, no investments, no insurance, one missed check away from being thrown out on the street. People in that precarious positions should not even be spending 100s must less thousands on hair from another country (where the people there are tricked into thinking they are donating to their religion).
    Tell ya what you can get a weave when you have

    8 to 12 months worth of household expenses saved up in case of emergency
    your 401k or retirement plan is maxed out
    You are not spending more than 30% of your income on housing
    All adults in the house have life insurance
    Everyone in the house has health insurance
    Every kid in the house has a college fund started
    You have little to no credit card debit.
    Once you do all of that WEAVE IT UP!

    • http://www.deeplyrootedbeauty.com DeeplyRootedBeauty

      I don't think anyone is offering excuses, period. The question is why are Black women disparaged for doing the same thing that every other woman of every other race is doing? When a white woman buys a weave, she's trying out options or going for a different look but when a Black woman buys a weave, she has self esteem issues. And let's be careful throwing stones when we live in glass houses. Because if you want to talk statistics, statistically, Black women are more educated, better paid, and financially more secure than Black men…(that's what the statistics say anyway)…so where is the article about Black men spending thousands on throwback jerseys, bling, and car accesories oh and based on your screen name weed.

  • joe digle

    because the white man told you, you were ugly. and you believed him. and now you spend more on your looks than what you earn. wow. how foolish is that.

    • blazetoday

      yep! i dont care whose hair you got on your head. you will still not measure up/

  • PIPER

    Black peoples priorities are all wrong. All we (blacks) think about is getting hair and nails done. Living in the projects wearing designer clothes. When will we get it. All races are leaving us behind. We were much better off during segregation. We are getting worse.

    • geemoenettie

      They are not leaving us behind. They DONE left us behind!

  • Dee

    I find it interesting that anytime there is a story or article on Black hair, it is always focused on Black women and their self-esteem/hair issues. What about Black men? Nobody talks about the self-esteem issues they have with their hair. If you haven't noticed, many Black men have taken to shaving their heads and sporting the bald look, my own brother included. Shortly after my brother started dating his white fiancee, he shaved his head. I asked him why and he said, "Oh, it was just so much trouble." It was then I started noticing that many, many black men (celebrities too) who had shaved heads are involved with white women.

    Now, I am not saying that I have anything against interracial relationships, and I am not saying that every bald-headed black man is involved with white woman, but in my humble opinion, I believe part of the reason we are seeing this trend is that black men have self-esteem issues as well when it comes to their blackness and their hair and so they attempt to remove every possible reminder that they are black. Since they can't change their black skin, they change what they can, i.e., their black hair. When I see a shaved-headed black man walking around in the store or the park or if he is driving around in a car, I can almost predict that the woman with him will more than likely be white.

    Check it out for yourself! Black men have issues with their hair as well; fortunately for them, it doesn't cost trillions of dollars to "fix" their issues. They get to fly under the radar, while black women take the full brunt!

    • Dub

      I think most Black men choose to shave their head because they're going bald, not necessarily trying to rid themselves of their Blackness because of a White woman. Are the men that you see older (30s and up)? There are other possibilities that could refute your theory as well (disease, don't want to spend money at barbershop, etc.)

    • geemoenettie

      yep

    • http://www.madamenoire.com A Single Rose

      Hi Dee I never noticed the association between bald African-American men and white women. I have dated a brotha, who is bald, he did mention he dated one white woman, however, he married a sista. So now I'm like hmm, I gonna pay more attention.

    • Brotherman

      No disrespect, but, that is the dumbest thing I've ever heard in my life.

    • geemoenettie

      I've noticed it too. I even had a friend tell me her son's hair was too nappy to allow it to grow out. So what do you think the boy is going to do when he is older?

    • Glenn

      HUH? Wow now that was the first time I heard something like this….Black men who shave their head bald is because that want to remove some characteristics of their race….I strongly disagree. I would have agreed with you if you said if it was for vanity, because I know a few black men who shave their hair because of male patterned baldness and didnt like the horseshoe look.

    • Natural Hair Guest

      This may depend on your area as I have not seen what you have. On the contrary, I've seen more and more Black men sporting locks now than I have in the past. I live near a major university and there are a huge number of interracial couples and I have only seen one or two black men that are bald. I am a Black woman engaged to a Black man. He shaves his head and has been doing so for a number of years. Nothing against his hair, but he didn't want to go to a barbershop any more and his hair is thinning. This was just a very feasible option for him.

  • the priestess

    why does this even matter? it’s not costing YOU money so why b***h about OTHER women spending their OWN money on hair? if anything, b***h about the u.s. governmental thieves taking your money through healthcare, taxes, and countless other things. everyone needs to fix their priorities and focus on what really matters in the world.

    oh and, food for thought: the govt. is making billions off of casualties from cancer through chemotherapy. chemo was used in WWII to gas and murder jews.
    cannabis (as well as other earth grown herbs) cures cancer and all related illnesses. there is medical and scientific proof of that. they don’t want you to know this because they profit from casualties, and healed people equal less casualties.

    you all are getting played real hard if you believe this “hair” article is anything worth even talking about.

  • KNB1

    Since my original post was deleted (for whatever reason) I’m posting again.

    Not to beat a dead horse but just like others have commented, black women are not the only ones who get weaves. I’m a little confused by the article title. It includes hair care in general with the cost of weaves. Some people with natural hair may pay more to maintain it then someone wearing a weave. Not by my own choice but my hair was cut right after my Junior year in HS. I wore a TWA throughout my Senior year and then texturized my hair right before going off to college. I have very coarse, thick, kinky, nappy hair and have grown to absolutely love it! It no longer affects me to hear about nappy hair because I no longer view it as something negative. You have to embrace and own it. I agree with another poster that you have to become reacquainted with your natural hair after having relaxers for so long. I got my first relaxer at 10 and stopped at 17. I have continously cut my hair every year and it was styled at the beginning of last summer as a mohawk. I’m now deciding if I want to grow it out or re-cut it. I have begun branching out and now occasionally wear wigs. I use them on days where I don’t feel like dealing with my hair. I didn’t go natural b/c I wanted to “go back to my roots” per say. My sister has had locs for about 11 years now and is very much into the African/Pro-Black cultures but she does express how she wishes she could wear a wig from time to time just to change up her look but her locks won’t allow it! One thing I would like to add is that people don’t realize how much kinky hair shrinks. You’d be amazed at how long it can be if straightened.

  • Terri

    Black women should have the right to wear their hair in any style they please…without commentary. How dare we judge another on style of hair. This article is jaded. I was a cosmetologist for a decade. The hair care industry is a multibillion dollar industry and I'm sure the bulk of the money is not spent by Black women. Our services, products, hair, are less expensive, by far than what you would find in a non-Black salon.
    I feel Black women have enough stressors in life. Why can't we wear our hair the way would like, in peace?

  • geemoenettie

    Super expensive hair from the 98cents Beauty Queen -CHECK Nails done- CHECK pedicure-CHECK expensive shoes- CHECK overpriced purse-CHECK education-::crickets::: 401k -::crickets:: healthy cholesterol level::::crickets:: PTA membership:::crickets:: home ownership::crickets:: We have GOT TO DO BETTER. Priorities are all jacked up.

    • http://hairaddiction101.com Oniea

      I can't afford a home, I can't afford education ( I'm trying to finish college), sometimes I can't afford to eat healthy( I try when I can afford it), my mother was working so hard she couldn't go to PTA meetings, . Black people need to stop being so harsh to each other. I don't wear weave and I've never had a pedicure or expensive shoes or purses either. Some people have nothing.

  • thewikkedone

    So…how exactly were these numbers calculated? was their an official survey of all the women in the world?

  • Anonymous

    I am a black woman and in my neighborhood there are faaaaar more hair salons dedicated to servicing other races, than there are salons that cater to and care for african american hair. I actually seen about equivalent numbers of white women wearing weaves as I do black women. They have become a staple for alot of young women of many races in the high schools around hear. I also use to work in a salon that did cater to all hair types. Believe me, ALL of these women invest a good some of money into their hair, including weaves. This article is truly biased. Why dont people do actual research anymore. Instead of doing an article solely dedicated to black women's hair care, research the whole spectrum of women and compile an article with some weight behind it. I would be less inclined to be offended by this type of material. This article gives the impression that blacks are wasteful in comparison to others. Yes that money could be used for something else but money from many other sources could be used for something else. I clicked on this article specifically to state the problems I have with articles like these that single out blacks and black women in a negative light. Im getting really tired of it. I go to the salon maybe twice a year, wear my hair natural and maintain a select set of haircare product that I love and I know work for me. Problems within the black community about hair and hair care product arise from several industries pushing us to always have our hair a certain way, poor quality products being advertised in hair magazines, and back handed comments at black women's choice of hair and hairstyles like the girl on twitter saying rihanna's hair is nappy. I think you get the point!
    I need this site to come more correct with article that address these issues and more. Please stop with the distasteful articles. Ive seen alot of people comment about not coming to the site or certain others anymore because of similar opinions. Let do better than this.

  • Ms. Jones

    I believe the fifth word should be coarse, not curse.

  • Supervibe

    Also
    "And BTW, who on God's green earth pays would pay $10,000 for a hair weave?"
    Tyra, Oprah, and Beyonce are the only women I can think of that pay that much for weaves. And if thats what they want to pay to make themselves look good then more power to them.

    BTW, after buying my hair and tipping my stylist, my hair costs $35 – $75 every 2 -3 weeks and it only depends on what kind/ brand (synthetic, human hair) of hair I choose to buy. This is the same amount of money I was paying at the hairdresser when I was getting relaxers.

  • Chris

    Years from now there won't be any Black Americans left they'll just be mixed, White, Latino, Chinese and Indian peoples. Our idea is to wipe out African features, dark skin, big lips, flat nose, tightly curled hair, etc; to appease everyone else. We hate ourselves and its not going to stop.

    • http://www.hairaddiction101.com Oniea

      It isn't that necessarily hate ourselves. It's that we've internalized the hate that receive from our environment. If humans are told constantly that they are bad, then eventually they'll believe it.