What Spending A Half A Trillion Dollars on Hair Care and Weaves Says About Us

May 11th, 2011 - By TheEditor

By H. Fields Grenee

Straight, wavy, curly, fine, curse – few things generate more passion or anger among African American women than their hair. Some critics note that the emphasis placed on hair is a double-edged sword aimed at ones’ self esteem. Or when quaffed well, i.e. “Good Hair” becomes a passage to acceptance within the dominate cultures’ ideal of beauty.

Then there are those who view hair – commercial or natural – as an accompaniment to an outfit; like a hat or that essential accessory that glams up the whole look. Despite what stance you view the landscape from – hair – African American hair and the cultivation of that “look” via the placement of weave is a multi-billion dollar industry.

Extensions can cost as low as $300 (depending on your geographical area) and go up to $10,000; based on the service – strand by strand extensions or weft (track) that are calculated per weft or a set price for the entire head, says Atlanta-based beautician Toni Love, who has more than 20 years experience styling hair with the addition of weave placement.

Factor in maintenance; better known as touch-ups, required every four to six weeks determined by how fast the recipients’’ natural hair grows – commercial hair placement can range between $4,000 to $80,000 a year – not including transportation, child care or lost productivity incurred by the three to eight hours required to complete the process.

Despite the cost reductions since weaves first gained popularity in the late 70s and early 80’s – when it was primarily used for theatrical purposes, movies, videos and on fashion runways – the expense is difficult to juggle with real incomes. Nevertheless, their hyper-visibility can be seen everywhere from corporate boardrooms to inner-city food desert bodegónes.

Quest for fashion fabulous hair speaks volumes about us

Consider this: $46,326 was the median household income in the United States according to 2010 U.S. Census data and the average income for African American families was $32,584, well below a middle-class lifestyle. Yet we over-spend for the purpose of appearance. Why is this?

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  • ShawnNeverSettles

    @Daniel,…….WTH does that have to do with ANYTHING?! Focus fool….lmbo!!

  • clarissa

    Yawn….no blame or shame for human attempt to beautify themselves. Its a personal choice.

    If your objective is to get me to boycott the evil bad attitude, customer stalking asian beauty supply store owners especially those in black neighborhoods I am IN! but leave black female folks alone. Everybody bullies them…..just because they can. All day everyday…..YOU Haters wont them get their hair groomed in peace. NOBODY WANTS TO LOOK POOR AND DIRTY. NOW EXPLAIN HOW OTHER RACES SPEND THEIR MONEY GROOMING …HATER….NOTHING AS SHADY AS GAY MEN!

  • http://google sleepless in boston

    Society will lower every womans self esteem if we let the media get to us, women in india want whiter skin, oriental women want fuller eye lids, most white women don’t feel feminine unless they have fuller busts and butts, and blond hair. The list gets longer but its a universal desire to look sexier and more desirable. So it some black women want longer hair its no big deal.

  • Lovethyself

    It seems many of us do not get the point of this article. It's not the fact of black women wearing weave. It's about the texture. We should ask the following questions when we put these things on our scalp: Why do we think we have to have straight hair? We weren't born with it. Did God make a mistake when it came to our hair? Who said your natural hair was "bad"? If that person looked like you that's sad….If that person didn't look like you, you've been pimped for about 125 years and counting.

  • KNB1

    Not to beat a dead horse but just like others have commented, black women are not the only ones who get weaves. I’m a little confused by the article title. It includes hair care in general with the cost of weaves. Some people with natural hair may pay more to maintain it then someone wearing a weave. Not by my own choice but my hair was cut right after my Junior year in HS. I wore a TWA throughout my Senior year and then texturized my hair right before going off to college. I have very coarse, thick, kinky, nappy hair and have grown to absolutely love it! It no longer affects me to hear about nappy hair because I no longer view it as something negative. You have to embrace and own it. I agree with another poster that you have to become reacquainted with your natural hair after having relaxers for so long. I got my first relaxer at 10 and stopped at 17. I have continously cut my hair every year and it was styled at the beginning of last summer as a mohawk. I’m now deciding if I want to grow it out or re-cut it. I have begun branching out and now occasionally wear wigs. I use them on days where I don’t feel like dealing with my hair. I didn’t go natural b/c I wanted to “go back to my roots” per say. My sister has had locs for about 11 years now and is very much into the African/Pro-Black cultures but she does express how she wishes she could wear a wig from time to time just to change up her look but her locks won’t allow it! One thing I would like to add is that people don’t realize how much kinky hair shrinks. You’d be amazed at how long it can be if straightened.

  • Meme

    I think black men are the cause of black women wanting to wear weaves, wigs, and extensions. They place so much emphasis on hair that its sickening. I chopped all of my hair off, went natural and got the most slack from black men. Many of them didnt even look my way, however when I switch it up and put a wig on my head, I get looks from brothers instantaneously. I had one brother go as far as faking like I had something in my hair so he could touch it to see if it was real. I mean its real sad, but this is why I just do me. I rock my kinks and curls and don't give a damn .

  • Aspen

    Why don’t they show how much Asian spend on surgery to look more ” western” or how much white women spend on notice or other cosmetic surgeries.

  • team nymphis

    blk women wear weaves cuz they’ve been programed to feel that their hair is kinky,nappy etc etc.that is why you never see them wit a afro wig or a weave that looks like their natural hair.it’s always silky straight like the white girls hair that they subconciously envy.that is why half the comments on here are “we ain’t the only ones who do it”let’s be honest and cut the bulshxt

  • http://Twitter.com/@RefinedSimone Simone

    natural or weave who cares, white black yellow where weave! The only ppl hung up on the weave thing are us! Life is to short to worry about if I should or shouldnt #TeamLivingYourLife do what makes u, u!! we need to worry about the kids education & respect issues!! Bettering ourselves and our communities!!! Stop making hair an issue & write about things that matter!

  • Natoya

    While I wear my hair natural, I feel that if a woman wants to spend her money on a weave that’s her choice. I’m troubled by this article because it comes off as if Black women are the only ones wearing weaves. I understand the “good hair” debate is specific to our community but issues of long lustrous hair is present in other cultures. Atlanta Post caters to Black news but while being critical of Black women hair choices, the figures of how much women of other races spend on hair would provide a “fair” judgement.

    • Natural Hair Guest

      While women of other races wear hair weaves as well, Black women are wearing weaves of a completely different texture that their own. Many Caucasian and Asian women add in hair extensions for length and volume and not so much for a change in texture. Black women though make up a large majority though in terms of products and hair.

  • http://twitter.com/kentyler215 @kentyler215

    I wear braids and weaves because my hair is too thick to manage. My natural hair is hell to mess around after the perm is sweated out or when the press and curl is worn out. Weaves are good to maintain, but I wear braids at least three times a year and it's just a time saver. Forget good hair. Good hair a pack and a half away.

    And BTW, who on God's green earth pays would pay $10,000 for a hair weave?

    • Linda

      Amen!! I would wear my hair natural if it were not so thick and coarse. I love the look of natural hair. As a working professional, I do not have hours a day to spend on trying t to manage hair. I perm my hair to manage it, not to look like anyone else. Why do we criticize black women for practicing there options. White women get curly perms but no one accuses them of low self esteem. This is ridiculous the way black women are pegged as having low self esteem if they don't wear their hair they way they were born with. Many non-black people make their straight hair curly or curlly hair straight. What is the big deal!!

  • Tron

    lol lol……..black women so mad at this post they wont even comment on the truth.

  • hmmm…

    THats just too much money to be spending for some hair that was on someone else’s head… Its kinda gross…

    • Shiela Brown

      I agree to this. If we are going to wear weaves, let's mak the money instead of giving it to the Japanese and Chinese! I straighten my hair the old fashioned way. Weaves cost too much money!

  • http://deeplyrootedbeauty@hotmail.com DeeplyRootedBeauty

    It seems like this researcher had nothing better to do with his time or “intelligence” than to devise a report to disparage Black women. All women want to look good or achieve some standard of beauty, it’s not just a Black thing. Black women aren’t the only women who use relaxers or weave, we’re just the women most disparaged for it. When I had a relaxer, I was verbally attacked and almost physically assaulted by a white woman because I picked up the last Phyto relaxer in Sephora.

    My hair is waist length now and I do not wear a weave but my white friends won’t leave the house without their extensions in.

    The real problem is that Black women have been miseducated about their hair (this article is no exception). Commercial companies make a lot of money off Black women by selling us products that clog our pores and dry our hair out so that we spend even more money trying to fix it.

    If you have a relaxer, you should not be getting a retouch every 4-6 weeks. That leads to over processing and breakage. Get a retouch every 8-10 weeks instead. Relaxed hair needs protein so look for shampoos and conditioners that contain silk amino acids, hydrolized wheat or oat proteins and vitamin B5 panthenol. Moisturize your hair daily but do not use products that contain mineral oil or petrolatum

    • hmm

      Some people can perm a couple times per year and that works for them….but there are others who if they wait 3 months their hair WILL start to break. honestly.

      I don't think this article is an excuse to 'disparage' Black woman. It's a real topic about a REAL subject in our community. Honestly, we can't grow if we keep sweeping every issue under the proverbial rug in an effort to protect our feelings or facades. That's silly, why ignore the truth when we can talk about it and hopefully grow from it?

    • marie jones

      i say just don't put that creamy crack in your head .

    • Charlotte

      Thanks for the advice. My hair is corse but very fine and I have a relaxer. I'm trying to find some products that are not harsh on my hair but effective. I just ordered some of those products today. Hopefully they work on my hair. Thanks again.

  • team nymphis

    just imagine what our communities could do with that money.but it all goes to enriching Asians and that’s a daym shame.a blk female wit her own hair is like the myth of Bigfoot and ufo’s.people claim to have seen them but it’s almost impossible to verify

  • shannon

    YET….WE WILL ONLY SPEND LESS THAN 200 MILLION ON BOOKS….AND EDUCATION!! NOW WHAT DOES >>THAT<< SAY ABOUT US???????

  • Gib

    Wearing a weave has everything to do with wanting good hair. So much so black women have paid a fortune just for the "Appearance" of good hair. Long, straight silky hair just like the white dolls they played with as children. Used to be when women fought in the hood they went for each other’s clothing. Now they go for the weave. To quote Sindbad, “Now listen to me: If you ball-headed on Tuesday, you can't have hair down your butt come Wednesday!”

    Sadly the prolonged wearing of de weave can have serious side-effects; namely pattern-baldness. That fine imported fiber takes its toll on a young woman's self-esteem every time it’s glued/braided in and every time it’s pulled out.

    • jeje

      Black people need to get over all this craziness. If this article is really about the money blk folks spend but don't have lets be real…its on cars, houses, and clothing. Stop taking money from blk business and hairdressers by attacking women who get weaves and spend money on their hair. Let's talk about the money we spend on things we really don't need and are not blk owned. Being well groomed is a positive thing not negative.

    • http://www.missybykwc.com Kellie

      I agree with you statement about the side-effects of wearing a weave. I currenly wear lock and my experience with weaves and perms damaged my hair so I decided to go natural. I noticed that the issue is not the weave its the wearers inability to care for the hair the weave is attached too. Dryness is what is causing the pattern baldness and yet women still don't strenghten their hair prior to wearing weaves. As a natural hair care and skin care busines owner I have to be honest and say there is nothing wrong with wearing a weave proper hair care will resolve any damage issue.

  • http://google Mixed

    Years from now the majority of african americans will be lighter skinned, and will have a longer silkier hair texture. Hopefully this will solve a lot of self esteem issuses and put a end to the intra racial envy and hatred going on now.

    • leelah

      I understand your point, but getting a massive, collective make over is not going to solve our problem. we shouldn't have to adopt some kind of community value of marrying up or white in order to love our features. If black people think like u, that would truely spell the end of our community.

    • Daniel

      No years from now majority of African Americans will be dead from HIV or they will be in jail. Prove me wrong give the trend we see today.

      • Black&Proud

        C'mon dude, for real?

  • Marie

    Wearing weave has nothing to do with wanting good hair. Next article!

    • Deity

      Ok, so people just love to wear itchy stuff on their head for no reason at all?

      • trini2dbone

        Everyone wears it for different reasons. Some like the women who genuinely think that sporting natural hair is disadvantageous to being 'accepted' by their white counterparts in the corporate world or the women who are convinced that straight hair is good hair will wear weaves to deal with those issues. Other women like me just like changing my look or resting my hair from relaxers and use braids and weaves as a means to achieving different looks. Not everyone who wears a weave has identity issues, in the same way , not everyone who is natural, is very confident about their racial identity

      • Ms Shan

        If it's itchy- it's the scalp not the hair. When the hair is original- it also itches- where have you been?

    • http://educate-empower.com BNWW

      Oh no! Think again! More articles on this issue needed!!
      http://Educate-Empower.com

    • Cassie

      Sorry, you can't just wave a magic wand and disregard what's plainly in front of ALL our faces. I'm a woman, and I know how important it is to 'look good'. But come on, all those billions of dollars do tell a story many of us don't want to face: as Black women we don't accept ourselves with our natural hair texture or length.

      I know all about having a weave isn't about self hate, blah blah blah, but it speaks volumes when you realize that most of us are NOT weaving our own hair texture onto our head, we are weaving the White/Asian woman's hair texture onto our Black heads. That actually does say a lot about us, collectively as a community. As a grown woman, its an issue I've had to look at myself, not in terms of weave, but in terms of perming my hair. When I have a daughter, how do I tell her to love her plaits when she sees mommy straightening her own hair every 6 weeks?

  • Loretta

    I wear my hair loced, it hangs to my waist and I love it! I have had my locs for almost 9 nine years, and I think I have "Good Hair"! I will never wear my any other way ever again!

    • http://www.madamenoire.com A Single Rose

      Loretta, I applaud you for embracing your locs and I agree with you for the most part but-yes but- I wish we would stop using that term "good hair". I feel that if you are not bald (it's one thing if that is a choice) because of disease or other issue including alopecia than any hair you have on your head is good, point, blank, period. I am presently deciding whether to loc or continue to sport my TWA but either I feel good about my decision to go natural even after the not so good (no pun intended) days after my big chop.