Africa’s Thirst For Human Hair Is A Billion-Dollar Business & Indian Companies Are Weaving In The Dough

January 12, 2015  |  
By Ann Brown
83 Comments

Shutterstock

Indian beauty firms, specifically human hair sellers, are racking up the big bucks in Africa.  Because Indian hair is popular for its strength and texture, it’s highly sought-after commodity in Africa, where it is used for wigs or extensions. In fact, demand is so high that there is a push by many Indian companies to not only export hair, but to invest in hair care businesses in the continent itself.

Just last week, a company called Godrej Consumer Products India said it will buy South Africa-based hair extension company Friska hair for an undisclosed amount, reports Quartz.

“This acquisition reflects our continued commitment to providing African consumers with a wide range of superior quality products at affordable prices,” Godrej’s managing director Vivek Gambhir said in a statement. “We remain very excited by the tremendous potential of the African market.”

Godrej is just the latest Indian company to make such a move. There have been others before, including Marico, Dabur and VLCC that all have hair care businesses in African countries such as South Africa, Morocco, and Nigeria.

No wonder these companies are expanding. The Indian hair export market is estimated to be worth about $393.5 million annually, with a yearly growth rate between 10 percent and 30 percent. Indian hair companies tend to export two types of hair: Remy and non-Remy. Remy hair is usually collected from temples and is of the highest grade. Non-Remy hair is processed. Because Non-Remy hair has cuticles that do not face the same direction, it is treated with hydrochloric acid to remove the cuticles. This reduces the quality of hair.

To get natural, chemically undamaged hair Indian companies go to great lengths, such as holding online auctions. The Tirupathi Temple in Andhra Pradesh (one of the 29 states of India), which holds online auctions annually, has earned $97 million through the sale of hair via e-auctions since 2011.

Africa is a prime market for Indian hair. Its dry hair market (the market for weaves, wigs, and extensions) is currently estimated to be worth $6 billion a year and booming. The market is so big that global giants such as Unilever and L’Oreal are investing heavily in African hair care products.

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  • rainbow

    Black women, please stop putting other women’s hair in your head. It is pathetic.

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  • shbkyn45

    This is so embrassing. Black women worshipping other people’s hair, thinking they look more beautiful. Excuse me black ladies, it does not make you look more beautiful, it makes you look more fake and foolish, and noooo self esteem.

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  • Taneesha Culture Clash Thomas

    why has my original comment been labeled as spam?…it’s clearly not spam smdh mademnoire

  • tt

    Wow! Once again another group of people are getting rich off of our insecurities about our hair. Sad.

  • That’s ridiculous, they could buy a house with that money. I know women who speak proudly of the amount of money that they spend on weave.

  • ydiiyf

    lol they wanna look like our women ill just be like nice wig XD

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  • JaneSmith100

    BW have self-hate for their hair. Natural hair is BEST. Stop giving these people your money! Be proud of your curls!

  • Girlx117

    Stop putting so much abnormal stuff in your hair, and be proud of what you have!

    Seen way too many women and young girls with so much un-necessary bs in their hair, and be completely bald 10 years later..

  • Latoya

    I’ve just been thinking recently. Maybe its the Holy Spirit talking to me but it’s a bit of a conflict of interest as Christian women buying hair from women that sacrifice their hair to idols.
    Not that it’s a sin, by ultimately we want them to know Christ right? So if they gave their life to Christ where would we get our hair from? So in that case do we want them to remain in darkness so we can look good?

    Hmmmmn #ThinkingOutLoud

    • monitorette

      Believing in Hindu Gods is no more remaining ‘in darkness’ than believing in your Christian god.
      …They can also keep on with their Hindu faith, keep on giving their hair to the temples and put a ban on the sale on this hair. Then your theological issue will be over.

      • Latoya

        If you’re not a Christian…. I was not talking to you.

        • monitorette

          No, but you were talking about people in so-called darkness. So show minimum respect to others believes. You are using the exact term that the Europeans used when describing the believes of your own ancestors before they converted them to Christianity.

          • Latoya

            Nope I’m using the term from the bible.

            • monitorette

              And then the Europeans (who themselves were convert to the christian faith) used this term in referring to your ancestors believes during the Colonial time in Africa and/or during slavery in America.
              And even if this term can be found in the Bible, stating that other peoples are living in darkness is disrespectful.

            • monitorette

              But if your all statement is ironic, “second degré” as we say in French, so no problem then.

            • s. cupcake

              dumb n1g

  • NYC Gal

    Guess who they following? The U.S.A.! When we accept our hair, then they will too!

    • Guest

      “When we accept our hair, then they will too!”–Ditto!!!

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  • bsbfankaren

    It would be awesome if we could instead teach those same women proper hair car techniques so that they can grow their own hair, rather than buying it!

  • Justwow

    Also the title is misleading. Africa’s or the Indian’s and whites who are buying companies HOUSED in Africa are thirsty? Also, you could t have found another “verb”? Lordt do better in 2015 and don’t delete my comment mmkay? Thanks

  • gapeach0614

    I’m not natural, nor do I have the patience to be, but I don’t believe in investing in a bunch of weave. I’m not against wearing it or anything, but I do feel that society plays a major role in how black women feel about their hair. I think if some of the weave wearing women out here simply took care of their own hair and accepted whatever texture they were born with rather than succumbing to the pressures of how society THINKS we should look, then we wouldn’t have to worry about being the cash cows to these other countries’ revenue.
    The black race has sadly been known to be the main source of revenue for a lot of companies, especially ones that are not black owned who don’t even want to see their products on us. We worry so much about being flashy, trying to outdo one another with material things without even considering investing within ourselves. I will admit that as a black woman, I don’t always support black businesses because of the lack of customer service skills as well as business management knowledge. Here in Atlanta, MOST black owned businesses are all the same: hot wing and soul food restaurants. I would love to see some black owned businesses that are out of the ordinary, especially down south. But hey, that’s my opinion.

    • Justwow

      Slightly offensive but I get your point since the guy I’m dating owned and sold his restaurant that was a chicken and wing establishment but currently he owns a shoe store in one of the major malls in ATL and we met a black male owner of an oil and scented store in Lennox. I will say sometimes we are our own worst enemies…you wouldn’t believe some of the stories he tells me like some not believing that his family owns the store *smh*.

      • gapeach0614

        That’s the beauty of having a business that people are surprised to be black owned. It’s the shock factor! We have the ability to think outside the box, but some would rather settle for what they are already surrounded by. Like seriously, how many more wing spots does Atlanta need? I can tell you how many are on Cascade Road alone! Some are even on the same block.

  • Tay Now

    The bad thing about this is how they are marketing the hair in Africa. They are showing commercials, billboards, etc. showing that Black American women who wear weaves and extentions are so respected and above women who do not. And because those women look up to Black American women so much they too will change…the only difference is the quality and grade the will get. Hair polluted and not for human use… Slowly but surely they trying their best to kill us off.

  • Tay Now

    The bad thing about this is how they are marketing the hair in Africa. They are showing commercials, billboards, etc. showing are respected Black American women are who wear weaves and extentions. And because those women look up to Black American women so much they too will change…the only difference is the quality and grade the will get. Hair polluted and not for human use… Slowly but surely they trying their best to kill us off.

    • Guest

      Exactly! I remember when Remy hair finally hit the African market. Instead of Asian men selling the hair, a lot of African men got in on the business and cut the Asian middle man out. When my friend informed me of this, I already knew that the weave market was going to explode there (seeing how much money was being made and them following our trends) as it did here.

  • csula32001

    Natural hair on blk women looks so unkempt and bird nest-like. I actually prefer women to look like women with long, straight hair–preferably with no weaves! I’m very active: hiking, running, surfing, etc., and I’ve tried dating blk women, but they seem so pre-occupied with NOT getting their hair wet, it really took the fun out being active with them! Also, nothing better than a great romp in the shower with a woman who isn’t concerned with her hair getting wet!

    • 1love3

      Please stay gone from black women. thank you.

      • csula32001

        Wow, bitter are we? I was just stating an opinion!

        • MYS_MAC

          Well my natural hair loves water. I am down for some shower action all day everyday but I AM NOT a good swimmer so yes, I will be staying out of the water…LOL Hey boo…

        • Justwow

          There was nothing bitter about her comment but their was a lot of ignorance in yours. You stated your opinion based on your personal experiences but to lump a WHOLE RACE because of the very few you met is ludicrous, insulting, and ignorant so yes fool, stay away from us.

    • Nida

      My white man loves my wigs and weaves. I have a special purple one I wear for him. You can keep being lonely and single cuz you don’t like the natural or fake hair on black women. While u out there passing up your own women someone else is picking them up and more concerned about her intellect and education than hair. Go ahead and pick up their white trash while they pick up our black diamonds. P.s. I’m a lawyer.

      • Karl Doe

        Wow, this is the second bitter response I’ve gotten! I just stated my opinion! And what does this have to do with you being a lawyer? I never said blk women were unattractive or unintelligent, just that I wasn’t fond of the natural look! Lots of blk women I know aren’t attracted to the paleness of my skin, but I don’t take it personal!

        • Latoya

          And the pink nipples don’t forget the pink nipples! Lol

          … Yh I don’t see why she had to mention she was a lawyer either lol

          I agree with u though. Black natural feels good but mostly for me it looks unkempt and Lord knows it takes waaaaaay too much effort.

          But why a white guy is gonna come on to a black blog and say that to a bunch of black women is just bewildering. You can’t call every response you get back “bitter” I don’t know what you were expecting.

      • Blackhawk

        Exhibit A = of the man’s brainwashing. This black woman is k00ning and probably have no idea.. actually proud of it. She is the result of centuries of self h^te that’s been taught to us.

        • Justwow

          Same thing I thought. You have a purple wig you wear for massa. How nice. So you’re an attorney? Nice…you’re still his lil ratchet side piece. Doesn’t matter what your pedigree, to some you’re still his lil jungle bunny and my ex is white so don’t come at me with you cant get a white boy and I’m a medical resident so don’t come for my education either.

      • JaneSmith100

        Nida, first, ty for making it girl. Second, why are you wearing wigs though? I am 100% natural with my man, and he’s not B either. Natural rules. Wigs? You’re only making these people in the article rich. Not trying to be a hater either here.

    • Guest

      You’ve been conditioned just like black women have. So no surprise on your views of natural hair.

  • Blackhawk

    Black women around the world have to stop k00ning and start loving the way God made you.

    • 1love3

      We have to unlearn a lot of behavior. I love my natural hair!!!

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  • heyheyno

    sounds like I need to invest

    • Latoya

      My thoughts exactly. Lotta money in Africa. I’m gonna turn my attention to the beautiful continent.

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  • Guest

    Africa is late on this trend. The Remy hair fascination has run its course in America, so these companies are desperately hunting for new consumers. Thank God for YT natural hair community. At its rate here in America, it’ll reach the African shore faster than previous and black people can ditch this disgusting practice for good.

    • JaneSmith100

      Yes, a thousand times yes.

  • Just saying!!

    Well DUH lol! It’s just as prevalent in black America. The movie “Good hair” anyone??? Black people don’t like their damn hair. Not surpised.

    • Guest

      “Black people don’t like their damn hair”–Which is crazy ’cause it’s gorgeous!!!!

      The conditioning has been going on so long people don’t even realize it.

  • MYS MAC

    #TEAM NATURAL ALL DAY EVERYDAY!!!!

    • Guest

      Same here.

    • Abi

      Team invest in our own communities and rebuild them

  • Taneesha Culture Clash Thomas

    how rich would we be if we kept that money in our own pockets & communities instead of spending it on wearing someone else’s hair?…hmmmmmmm

    • Guest

      The conditioning has been going on for so long. It’ll be a while for them to wake up, the same way it’s taking us a while to finally wake up and see the beauty of our hair.

      • JaneSmith100

        Our hair grows up next to G-d theirs grows down to the Devil! LOL, saw that on bossip in caps letters once – laughed and am repeating it!!! I love our hair it is beautiful! I wish people would STOP being ashamed of it. It’s just super curly!

      • Notmycandy

        True, my daughter was natural at least six months before I did. She woke me up.

    • Notmycandy

      I still don’t understand celebrities like Beyonce living in hers. With her huge bank account she can get her hair treated and done naturally everyday if she wanted too. She has a lot of little girls wanting to play dress up like her and losing their own natural hair and dollars doing so. Hopefully Blue will love herself more.

      • Taneesha Culture Clash Thomas

        i understand why entertainers protect their natural hair with weaves and wigs etc…all the styling & restyling would be very damaging…i think you can clearly see that Beyonce’ doesn’t hate natural hair…if she did i’m sure she would’ve caved in to all the criticism about how she maintains her daughters hair…which she hasn’t…Blu’s fro is beautiful

  • Trini_Angel

    Believe it or not, this was one of my main reasons for going back natural. The chemicals from relaxing was damaging my edges and I realised that I was beginning to prefer (not that I needed to) to wear weaves sewn into my hair. So one day I just cut it all off….and I must say it felt like a weight was lifted. I can’t explain how much I’m in love with my natural hair. Its growing faster, thicker and longer than when my hair was relaxed. The edges has been restored. I’m IN LOVE with my natural hair and I wish others would be too!!!

    • Taneesha Culture Clash Thomas

      amen it literally does feel like a weight’s been lifted when you love & wear your own hair

    • JaneSmith100

      Amen. And my hair is HUGE girl. HUGE, and IDC and IDGAF what anyone says. Amazingly it’s our OWN PEOPLE that give me the worst isht, WP love it.

      • Trini_Angel

        Lmao! U sound just as excited as I was when I saw the change. I sadly never got a chance to appreciate my natural hair as it was relaxed when I was young. I can’t believe I had all that rich,thick beautiful hair hiding under all those chemicals. Its time for black people to love and appreciate our unique but beautiful hair textures and different hues of skin. I’M NEVER GOING BACK TO RELAXING!

        • JaneSmith100

          My hair is triple or quadruple thick. Everyone tells me that, I used to get “shamed” for having such thick hair but I love it, especially now! 🙂

          I’m always out there COMPLIMENTING people on their natural hair. They usually say they like mine too. Even if mine looks a big wreck, I’m like, “hey, I love your hair” and amazingly they say “I love yours”… 🙂

      • Notmycandy

        I bet it’s beautiful. I just wish that I had done mine sooner.

        • JaneSmith100

          I will be honest, sometimes I’m like…omg…but okay…I’ll be brave and leave the house with it. My husband says it’s ALWAYS BEAUTIFUL 🙂

    • Notmycandy

      I went natural two years ago on Jan 1, 2013. I did the big chop and now two years later my hair is past bra length. I love it and always tell people to use the benefits from coconut oil on hair and skin.

  • NewYorkBunny

    This makes me sad though. 6 billion a year from my people. Can we put that to better use? Like, taking back our continent. Can invest in ourselves?

    • TIMEATELL FATHERTIME

      Yeah, this is not good. The trend is worse in America, but that’s to be expected given our oppressive history.

      • JaneSmith100

        It depends where, in the cities in the USA more women wear natural hair. Outside of cities is where people wear weaves and wigs – MORE. But I blame our BW celebs who always always wear weaves and wigs. I’m looking at Rihanna and Beyonce right now. Hard.

        • TIMEATELL FATHERTIME

          That’s interesting…I’m male, but I do see more and more women wearing their hair natural. Regarding the celebrities, it’s like they’re deliberately going against the grain and trying to hold on to the old “good hair” stereotypes.

          • Notmycandy

            Natural is getting more attention and admiration. My family and a few friends are natural and loving it.

    • YouveGotMail

      Can I like this comment 10 more times? Gees! You are so right.