Nice Try Knocking Natural Hair, Kevin Roose, But You’re The One With No Redeeming Quality

July 30th, 2012 - By Brande Victorian

Speaking on things which you know nothing of appears to be a growing trend across the Internet and you can add New York Magazine writer Kevin Roose to it’s long list of recent offenders.

Beefing up the hype for his column’s latest series, “Dumb Money,” in which the writer says, “we’re going to periodically trawl tech blogs for the worst examples of Silicon Valley stupidity, then subject the investors behind them to public mockery,” Roose decided to give an example of a said stupid investment, and surprise, surprise he settled on natural hair. The columnist wrote:

“Some of tech’s clunkers never get off the ground, but others manage to get big, high-profile investments despite having no redeeming qualities whatsoever. (For example, what kind of genius decided to throw $1.2 million at NaturallyCurly, the ‘leading social network and community for people with wavy, curly and kinky hair?’)”

As a white man, I wouldn’t expect Roose to see the redeeming quality of a social network for people with wavy, curly, kinky hair or to understand the popularity of natural hair bloggers like Curly Nikki, Afro Bella, and the revenue-generating platforms they’ve built on such a “throwaway” concept. However, as a “lead business writer,” I would expect him to understand the value of it—from a business standpoint. You don’t have to be a part of the market that a site like Naturally Curly would appeal to to understand the business case for such a concept, and you certainly aren’t on your Ps and Qs if you don’t realize what a booming industry natural hair and it’s social media counterparts are.

We obviously know these things because we live it and breathe it every day, but it’s not as though the natural hair boom is a phenomenon we’ve kept hidden in the kinky-curly community. In December, USA Today wrote an article chronicling the shift black women opting for natural hair as opposed to chemically straightened has had on revenue in the black hair care industry. The author noted that:

“The number of black women who say they do not use products to chemically relax or straighten their hair jumped to 36% in 2011, up from 26% in 2010, according to a report by Mintel, a consumer spending and market research firm. Sales of relaxer kits dropped by 17% between 2006 and 2011.”

Since we know black women didn’t opt to forego hair products altogether, that 17% of sales clearly went right over to the natural-hair industry which is continously growing in investment and sales, which is why sites like Naturally Curly not only have redeeming qualities, they have remarkable revenue. Latoya Peterson went one step further in her rebuttal on Racilicious.com, writing:

The viability of the natural hair care market isn’t something only discussed in publications geared toward minority markets. Inc. Magazine ran a case study on Mixed Chicks after discovering they faced a huge quandary: their product line was so successful that Sally Beauty Supply allegedly created a knock off called “Mixed Silk.” Mixed Chicks is a growing company with revenues of $5 Million a year — Sally’s is an established behemoth with more than $3 Billion a year at its disposal. While the lawsuit may ultimately endanger the business the two founders (both WOC) built, the existence of Mixed Silk proves that even huge brands are looking to jump into the natural hair care market.

And here we come to the problem.

Roose’s thoughtless (and factless) comments illuminate some of the problems in Silicon Valley, namely that the space is controlled by people who are fairly myopic. If this market isn’t something they understand or participate in, it doesn’t exist. And these kinds of perceptions create an environment in the marketplace that disadvantages minority/women fronted businesses seeking investment to create products for their communities.

Peterson is absolutely correct. As we’ve talked about countless times before, the black community absolutely must strive for financial independence via entrepreneurship, but what that often looks like in it’s beginning stages is securing investment capital from institutions that are not owned and operated by black people. Sure, we see the value in creating products specifically for us, and though the rest of the world clearly should with report on top of report indicating that black buying power will reach $1.1 trillion in just three short years, as Black Voices points out, Roose’s dismissive comments are reflective of a larger mindset of individuals and corporations who have no desire in backing, much less buying, black. And then we are left once again struggling to prove our value in more ways than one.

In a lot of ways, the joke is on Roose because if he were more business savvy he’d be trying to get in on the goods and purchase some stock in companies like Naturally Curly and the slew of others that will no doubt follow—not to mention the wellspring of corresponding products that are popping up on shelves by the day. Unfortunately though, black people will still bear the brunt of his condescending remarks as long as people with power buy in to his mentality that investing in black is whack.


Brande Victorian is the news and operations editor for 
madamenoire.com. Follow her on twitter @Be_Vic.

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  • Hair Experts

    Great article, but why are people really allowing his comment to itch their skin. It could very well be a publicity stunt to now increase investor funding into natural black hair.

  • TeeHeHe

    Hi,I buckeat amember me?

  • dontdoit

    NaturallyCurly has been around since at least 1998. I also don’t think it is black owned. This article does bring up some wonderful point that I wish were public knowledge to all black people, particularly those looking to find a way to elevate their income potential.

    With the growth of black women going natural what was once a grass root movement of small internet communities and YouTube videos is becoming big business because hair care companies are trying to get that revenue back.

    I knew being natural went mainstream when I see companies whose mainstay is relaxing reaching out and creating concoctions for natural hair. Recognized the power of the dollar and capitalized on it.

    • dontdoit

      Also, good article.

    • Candacey Doris

      Well naturally curly isn’t just for black people. It deals with EVERYONE that has curly, wavy, or kinky hair. I have jewish and middle eastern friends that love it.

  • Pingback: Kevin Roose Knocks Natural Hair Investment In NY Mag | Madame … | About Curly Hair

  • Pseudonym

    Well, is it the idea of catering to naturals or the fact that someone spent $1.2 MILLION doing it? I agree that the natural community is a great group to market to, however so many have been successful with so much less. I’m definitely sure NaturallyCurly could have achieved the same success with a whole lot less start up costs. Just look at Curly Nikki, Black Girl with Long Hair, etc. Most of them started out on free websites. What’s the $1.2 million dollars for?

    • Miss Anonymous

      I agree with you. Plus Roose (spelling?) is a man and a nice amount dont understand the whole thing with shampoo, conditioner, hot oil, GHE, etc . . . . My dad feels anything past washing is frivilous (lol) he keeps a close shave.

    • Bree

      Curly Nikki was acquired by Naturally Curly.

    • KamJos

      1.2 million is not a lot in the world of VC funding. 1.2 million goes to salary, advertising, website maintenance etc. Those sites probably grew with advertising revenue. But that’s a hard road and not everyone makes it. It’s far more likely to be successful with a big investment. I think more Blacks should recognize their worth in economics and start asking for a piece of the pie too. I worked at a startup that got a million dollars that all of us working there could clearly see wasn’t gonna work. (I just needed something for the summer.) There was little market for it. They lasted for a year. Lots of startups fold. In this case there was an actual market for it. It was a smart move.

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