Is the ‘Natural Hair’ Movement Really Just the ‘Kinky Curly Fro’ Movement?

June 21st, 2012 - By Alissa Henry
"curly vs straight"

source: kissntellchantell

I’ve been looking around the internet trying to determine what exactly constitutes as “natural hair”.

I was under the impression that a person is “natural” if her hair is free of chemical relaxers. However, after observing natural hair blogs, Youtube, Black Twitter, Pi Nappa Kappa, Natural Hair Meetup annoucements and any place black women gather in large numbers, it seems that the “natural movement” is really just the “kinky curly fro” movement.

Am I out because I actually like wearing my hair straight?

18 months ago, I received my last relaxer. As I’ve discussed before, I stopped getting relaxers because my hairstylist told me chemical straighteners stunt hair growth. Relaxers never got my hair bone straight without the help of a cosmetology license, a blowdryer with a comb and a smoking hot ceramic flat iron anyway, so I figured I could do without the chemicals and achieve the same look.

I’m still growing out my relaxer, and I think my hair is about half-natural. Yet, I hear people say “I’m natural” after skipping a single relaxer retouch. More than once, I’ve wanted to point out that washing your hair and letting it air dry doesn’t mean you’re natural, but I refrain.

I can see why they think that though because when I look around, it seems that being natural just means wearing your hair curly. That’s why some of these celebs can throw on a kinky curly wig and become the poster-child for the movement. Meanwhile, I’m on the side thinking wait…isn’t that weave? If I point out the ridiculousness of celebrating a curly sew-in as “natural hair” then I’m accused of throwing shade, when in actuality, I’m just confused.

The other day, I was telling my friend that defined curls seem to be the goal, yet my hair just looks wild when I don’t wear it straight. In response, she suggested I try a twist-out while I’m transitioning. I had no clue what a twist-out was so I went to Youtube. I watched two ten minute videos of a girl demonstrating how to do a twist-out. I was floored by the sheer amount of time, patience and product it takes to achieve that style. Silly me, I thought all these girls were wearing their hair in it’s natural curl patterned state, but really it just looks like the natural hair movement has exchanged using time, products and styling tools to get your hair uncharacteristically straight for using time, products and styling tools to get your hair uncharacteristically curly.

Further, what if I don’t want to wear my hair curly? What if I like being able to feel my scalp? What if I like being able to brush my hair up into a ponytail? What if I like my hair hanging as far down my back as it can get?  What if I can’t afford the trial and error of trying different products? What if I just want to grow my relaxer out completely, yet still use heat to straighten my hair from the root and whip it back and forth Willow Smith style? Am I still “natural”?

Don’t get me wrong, these kinky curly fro chicks’ hairstyles are hot! Looking at some of these blogs often has me seriously considering chopping off the remaining chunk of relaxed hair, retiring my flat irons, spending mortgage money on the natural hair products at Target, highlighting my hair beyond recognition and living a life unfazed by precipitation and humidity, but I’m not quite there yet.

I’m still “going natural” though…right?

Alissa Henry is a freelance writer in Columbus, OH. Follow her on Twitter @AlissaInPink or check out her blog This Cannot Be My Life

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  • Will NEVER Relaxe Again

    Wow… what a shame could this writer been this sorry? Talk about history repeating itself . I guess she feels better in the big house and thats fine she should stay there others have decided to seek out a better path and that maybe a path not taken which requires effort. That was a really sad sorry article. Going natural cost no where near the amount she has spent placing a relaxer on her hair with the help of a “Professional”. I’ve been there and know that for a fact. Please stay relaxed or flat iron if it is your choice but if others seek a different way let them. It is not harmful to them or you. Stay relaxe please!!! And no missing 6 week fix is not going natural.

  • DianaDT

    Yes! I have been without a relaxer for 6 years. I too was surprised when I first transitioned that it took just as much work wearing my hair straight than it does natural. However, my mother schooled me on all the work it takes to achieve a good fro even in the 70′s. That’s what first got my attention. I don’t mind. It’s all hair care, I just choose to do so without the harsh chemicals of a relaxer. I have been getting my hair straightened for years. At first, I thought I was doing something wrong going natural and having to take so much care. Then I realized, it doesn’t matter. I was being too dramatic, unless I have a buzz cut or original dreadlock…there will always be a little maintanence. When I realize that my white friends put just as much work into straightening their hair or defining curls..it really opened my eyes. We all have maintanence. In the winter, I wear my hair straight and in the summer I wear it natural, wash, moisture, and headband..out the door.

  • TraceMe2Trinidad

    Bottom Line: Natural hair is being relaxer free. How you choose to STYLE your natural hair or relaxed hair is your personal prefrence. Maybe the twist outs are not about acceptance but instead prefrence or easier to manage.. also keeping your hair twisted or braided holds in moisture better, then when you take the twist or braids loose, you have a nice and LONGER, stretched out curl pattern. Some people like long hair some like it short. Some like if fuzzy some like it curly. I don’t think any of this really matters. As long as your hair is healthy and YOU like the way it looks who cares if your natural, relaxed, weaved up or bald headed. Going back and forth about who does what and how and why is not bringing us together, it’s singling people out and making them feel like their personal prefrences is not the right one.

  • TAM

    If you like to wear you hair straight. DO YOU. I don’t see what your confusion is.

  • monitorette

    Of course, you can still call your hair ‘natural’ as long as there is no chemical relaxer left. The way you style your hair (straight, curly, in ponytails or not) has no effect on the ‘natural’ state.
    I’m not Black, but I suggest you to use only natural oils to style your hair, because the time you spend on styling them is also the time you spend on nourishing them and your patience will be rewarded.

  • monitorette

    Of course, you can still call your hair ‘natural’ as long as there is no chemical relaxer left. The way you style your hair (straight, curly, in ponytails or not) has no effect on the ‘natural’ state.
    I’m not Black, but I suggest you to use only natural oils to style your hair, because the time you spend on styling them is also the time you spend on nourishing them and your patience will be rewarded.

  • Pingback: Is the "Natural Hair" Movement Better Characterized as the "Kinky … | About Curly Hair

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Bernice-Roach-Benbow/1117565627 Bernice Roach Benbow

    When I first cut the perm out 10 or more years ago I wasn’t trying to be a part of ANY movement I was merely doing me! I went from long hair to boy bald and very natural short curls and LOVED the freedom and compliments! There were some that were inspired to follow suit and decided to cut theirs, only they were not as pleased. I think because we have worn perms sooooo long many have forgotten the true texture of their natural hair and even many more have no clue how to care for their black hair, especially if it does not curl or wave up naturally. They become dischanted, but truth is, even the most kinkyest hair can be beautiful IF properly cared for! The main thing is keeping it clean, ALWAYS KEEP moisturized, trimmed, deep conditioning twice month and use natural oils or creams. I prefer creams because mine is naturally curly, but has tendercy to get frizzy on ends with greasy oils only. Either silk wrap or TWIST or braid at night to retain moisture and to prevent split ends, I prefer to silk wrap (don’t care to be bothered at night) And stay away from heat, products with acohol, vaseline and mineral oils!

  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Bernice-Roach-Benbow/1117565627 Bernice Roach Benbow

    I think the confusion comes from fact that many of us wearing naturals, especially those from the 60′s believe a natural is withOUT chemicals and HEAT! The natural movement of the 60′s was about embracing Africa and the natural state of the African’s hair! It really does not matter what product you put in or what you do to mantain this texture because a twistout, braids ect. is still in keeping with the natural state of the African hair texture. We went from pressing our hair (which connected us to identify of whites) with heat to embracing afros and braids to speak to our pride, black pride in ourselves and our natural hair. It is not the natural state of African hair to whip in the wind! In the 60′s the ONLY one whipping in the wind were nonblacks and blacks that worn wigs or had some other mixture of race, we really were not into perms, at least I never knew anyone that was perming their hair then!!
    I have been wearing my hair natural for about 10 years, at some points I wore boy bald, but now am wearing it in a short curly do. I have naturally curly and spiral hair. I co wash using conditioners ONLY no shampoos (they strip and dry out hair), then Shea butter and 100% coconut oil and air dry.
    The heat on natural hair does just as much damage as does perms, especially if done regularly!!

    • http://www.facebook.com/1Mistee315 Tammie Thomas

      This blogger Alyssa Henry wrote another article about being relaxer free and hating every minute of it. If you feel that bad about not relaxing your hair just don’t do it! I’m sure she’s young and probably doesn’t have any other history to go on for her points but for me I understand what the fuss is about. Your replies Ms Benbow are the most intelligent responses I’ve read. Preach on my sistah!

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