Let Nature Take Its Course: The Hidden Hustle Of Maintaining Natural Hair

April 8th, 2012 - By Alissa Henry

essence.com

 

Immediately, I noticed the salon up-charged me $15. One of the selling points of going relaxer-free is to save money (a touch-up costs $55+). However, a wash/flat-iron plus a low 15% tip now costs nearly as much, yet I’m expected to come to the shop every week for them to help manage the hair they encouraged me to stop relaxing?

I can’t afford that life.

These shop owners know what they’re doing: they’re promoting natural hair yet charging us more money than they did to chemically straighten our hair.

And salon owners aren’t the only ones cashing in on this movement.

Some popular natural hair products are $58 for 16oz of product! Weave helps with transition, but a good weave with considerable length costs a minimum of $120 – not to mention what beauticians charge for application.

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  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_PLRC7E3CUOFO2BTUXDZJFOVTGI Mdeborah

      Over many years I’ve only found two stylists who were really good with my hair.  One was overseas, one was here and decided to quit doing hair and go back to school. After many years of mistreatment, insults from stylists with attitude problems and money wasted I have been relaxer free for about 2 years now.  No more stylists, etc. Hair is healthy and when it’s an issue I just pop on a wig.  I also really hate buying Black hair products from non-Blacks and have a serious desire to run them out of business.  

  • Fasthandsernestine

    That’s a bunch of BS….I know for a fact having your hair natural is easy I’ve been natural and I’ve had relaxed hair and natural is by far the best and no slam to the people who don’t know how to maintain their own freakin hair in its God given state but come on, give me a break.  Its not hard at all to put some moisture in your hair and twist it or wear a fro or braids.  We grew up on that as kids. So anytime I hear someone say its hard or you have to have someone else take care of your hair it just sound so foreign to me.  You may need someone to cut it into a shape but so far as the maintenance you can do that yourself.  I agree with LaLa

  • Mrsadkiah

    I don’t know what’s wrong with you people lol. I do my own hair and you wanna know what I use? To style my hair I use water, Shea butter (that I bought last summer and haven’t even made it through 1/3 of the container) , oil (jojoba, coconut, or olive) I bought and 8 oz bottle of jojoba oil from Trader Joe’s that lasted me 8 months and Garnier Sleek and shine conditioner. To wash it I use Pantene for women of color shampoo and Olive Oil protein deep conditioner. That’s it. I have never been a “product junkie” or any of this other nonsense. This is coming from a broke college student. My hair is not expensive at all. 

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_LKQE4UQRBBVNOIRAL4EB2SPCWI Jen

    This is exactly why I’m having conflicting moments when it comes to my hair.  I have pressed, relaxed, permed, cut, let it grow back, put it in a ponytail, braided and gelled to no end.  I am TENDER HEADED (yeah I know but it gets the point across) which means I really don’t want someone touching it but I’ve done research and talked to several people who has locks, twists, short hair or a non fuss hairdo and the decision is very hard for me. Besides going bald, which will not happen, I just don’t know what would be the right thing for me.  I can find other things to do with my time in the morning than dealing with my hair only to have it mess up because of the weather, heat or flash! Help anyone???

  • Nefijones1

    I have been natural for at least a year.  I went to a natural hair stylist twice.  She charged me about $30 each time and she taught me how to do my own hair.  The only thing I tend to spend money on in terms of my hair is new products to experiment on my hair (just for fun).  But honestly, a good conditioner, olive oil, coconut oil and shea butter is really all you need.  Very inexpensive!

    There are so may Youtube vlogs, websites, and blogs that naturals can learn from but you have to be willing to learn to work with your hair.  It’s a good thing!

    • Nefijones1

      I forgot to say that the natural hair stylist gave me hairstyle options and did not try to sell me any products.  She told me to keep it simple. 

      I refered a friend of mine to her and she gave her options as well and recommended a very simple hair routine as well.

      My experience was nothing like this article.  All of the natural hair stylist are not out to get you.

      • don’tLie2getmymoney

        big business is starting to feel the results of BLACK WOMEN loving and embracing what God gave them and saving a lot of money while doing it. i don’t believe everything written or vlogged about the negatives in going “natural”. i love my natural hair and all the money I’ve saved from NOT purchasing PERMS,WEAVES EVERY OTHER MONTH, AND DIFFERENT PRODUCTS AND SPRAYS TO KEEP MY HAIR STRAIGHT. #TEAM NATURAL HEALTHY HAIR. p.s I agree w/ your comments

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1604244 Raimi Nicte

    LMAO at the lie suggestion! I think that great! 
    I have to say that I agree 100% with the premise behind the article. I have been natural for 26 years of my 27 years on earth and I count that 1 year of relaxer as a bad lapse in my aunts judgment… I used to get my hair pressed out every 2 weeks, so I would go to the salon right along with my relaxed sistas and I’ve definitely noticed that as more women are moving towards embracing the natural hair movement, salons are definitely charging more for natural services. I now embrace my curls so I very rarely straighten my hair anymore, but even when I do, I do it at home and it looks just as good. I agree with Imani Finn, you live with your hair, just learn how to work with it and it will do what you want it to do. Good luck to all ladies!

  • fitnessforlife

    I know, right. A hair cut at a local natural hair specialist (the best one) is $75. But natural hair also enables you to do your hair at home. That’s where you save money (but not time). 

  • Cottonbutterfly

    I have been a stylist for 15 years and everyone hear has used the concept of relaxed hair incorrectly by classifying it as a measure to make the hair straight (yes, this is the result but not the concept of its origin)  which has allowed the natural stylists who advocate against looking European by excessive attributes with straight styles. However, it has been at the excess of the our trampled natural beauty by the overall marketing and media industries that relaxers have caught such a bad wrap. Technically and professionally we are taught that relaxers are made and aide to maintain a more manageable mane. Yet, if you all be honest when we didn’t see every nap, fried, dyed, and laid to the side….if there was once nap showing we told the stylists and others the relaxer didn’t take or Child, she didn’t know what she was doing. Again, relaxers were never designed to make straight hair. Relaxing of the hair is a straightening process to !help! make the hair manageable and excessive manipulation of the product can produce can cause irritation, hair loss, and injury to the scalp listed on all relaxer instructions for professionals and non-professionals alike. I promote healthy hair ….Point Blank Period…straight or natural because both client pay with green money.

  • ebonyhud

    You don’t NEED to go to the shop all the time. Hell, there is a specialist for every body part now, but you don’t need to see them every couple weeks. Also you don’t need a hairstylist to maintain your hair as Tasha said. There are plenty of people with nice looking and healthy hair  walking around on this earth that manage their own hair.

  • Pingback: Let Nature Take Its Course: The Hidden Hustle Of Maintaining Natural Hair « Black Online Dating

  • JEM

    I don’t go to the salon- don’t like the process, the way they do my hair (some have a rigid way of doing things), and of course the cost isn’t worth it (to me). So I’ve been doing my hair all my life. I cut it myself, I trim it myself, I straighten it myself, and when I don’t straighten, I wear it in it’s natural texture. 

    For those who like to wear their hair straight more often than not, I developed a routine for how to make straight look last longer.

    A week after straitening is when we start to feel compelled to “touch up” with the hot comb or flat iron. But I like to keep heat usage to a minimum, plus sometimes you don’t have time for all that. So what I do is wash my face at the sink before I shower. For some reason, trying to wash your face in the shower even with a shower cap on and a scarf on underneath, still gets your edges wet. I found washing my face separately  helps a lot, and immediately stepping out of the bathroom after taking a shower b/c that warm, humid air will revert the edges or cause you to sweat, which will revert the edges anyway. I wrap my hair at night, but I don’t use a scarf. I actually use a hairnet-type thing that I tie over my hair so that it can breathe and not be so constricted. Scarves make me hot, and there’s nothing more frustrating to me then waking up and taking off the scarf only to find some huge wave in my hair from sweating during the night. However, after so much time, it’s inevitable that your roots will start to get wavy, so instead of fighting it, that’s when you twist or braid your hair at night, take it out in the morning, tousle your hair a bit, and style it so that you will have a textured hair style that blends in with random waves or wrinkles. When my straitening starts to get “old”, that’s when I really start to have fun experimenting with styles b/c I know I’m going to wash my hair again soon anyway. Also, if you’re the type that needs to wash your scalp b/c it gets itchy, oily, etc., then you can try to put your hair in the high (but loose) pony tail and wash the scalp (just the scalp) in the sink using a cup to rinse the hard to reach areas, like the back of your head. I’ve done this plenty of times when I wanted to wash my scalp but didn’t want to straighten my entire hair again (I like to keep heat usage to a minimum especially on my ends). I make sure to keep the ponytail dry as possible, so I only need to blow dry the hair closest to my scalp, touch up with a hot comb, then voila, I washed my scalp without having to straighten the entire length of my hair.

    I can’t stress how important it is to use hair moisturizers that truly moisturize their hair from within, not just coating it with something. Raw shea butter is really great, so is avocado oil (they just don’t have pretty smells). If you wear your hair very textured, then you can use these liberally to enhance the texture, but if you plan on straightening, then a little will go a long way, especially applied to just the ends. 

    As far as trimming goes, there are a lot of really good tutorial videos on youtube on how to give yourself a fool proof cut, even if you want layers. I’ve been cutting my own hair for about 15 years and no one would ever guess that I do it myself. Most are shocked when I tell them and some ask if I can cut theirs lol. But I tell them no b/c I only know how to do my own hair lol. 

    • Nitty

      Not everyone has hair that you wake up braid n then toussle.

  • Gregg Na77

    Thank you for this article. I have been in transition for nearly two years now because I refused to do the big chop. If I took the time to learn to care for my own hair, I could save the $150 I spend a month not including the gas to drive 30 miles there and back twice a month. Let’s not even talk about products. The hardest thing is finding a new stylist once you relocate. My previous stylist in Nevada flat ironed my hair twice a month at $50 a pop and my hair started at my ear and was past my shoulders after 9 months. I did not mind driving the hour away because she grew my hair out and I loved her for it.I get to Maryland and my hair is now at the nape of my neck. All that work to grow it out only to have it   chopped off every other week. My current stylist keeps telling me that once the permed hair is gone, she won’t have to cut my hair every visit. The goal is to grow it and I thought going natural would be healthier and somewhat cheaper, but here I am charged $45 before the $15 deep condition( I got these once a month in Nevada if I requested it) and $15 trim (every 8 weeks in Nevada) and 15% tip. This is impacting my budget. I am paying more for results I do not want and more is being done to my hair than I feel is necessary to maintain it. Glad I am not the only one who realizes it is costly being natural.

  • Ajsmom1961

    i would never let a cosmetology student do a weave. i am managing my own hair and getting braids when i get tired of straightening/and heat damaging my hair. i won’t get a relaxer until these tricks stop working for me.

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